Yea, I have read a bit more and decided to go without the fuse as this is the concensus around here. I did rune a 80A fuse on my single drive till now and newer had any problems and now that I’m planing of going dual 6374 motors I’ll probably need all the jucie I can get…
I do have a smart bms and I fused the charge port, so this shuld be safe enugh! What would be the max safe vesc setting for my battery? Like I mantioned above, its a NESE 10s3p made from Molicel P26A cells and 12Awg silicone wires for the main leads.
Discharge max = 35A x 3 = 105A depending on ESC used. But that is a max, setting to 90A may suit?
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Hi all, finished building my 18s6p P45B pack and did my BMS wiring yesterday. I am using a JBD SP22S003 BMS and everything seemingly went fine except for my final readout. The diagram shows leads BC16-17-18-19-20 as getting combined, however on my connector there is no lead for where BC20 would be - it skips and has the last 2 leads. I combined the 4 wires 16-19 and finished it off per the diagram, however I am getting an odd readout on the Xiaoxang app. Not sure if I should add a lead where there is one missing, and add it to the other combined leads? Even though the BMS model number is SP22, it’s listed as a 21S BMS (and the missing wire would confirm that also).
Any thoughts? Thanks in advance and happy holidays all.
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What i normally do is remove the black plastic cover on the back of the BMS and solder those pins together at that location.
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I just ran all 4 leads to the 16th P group since it wasn’t a long run. Do you have any idea what might be up with the funky reading? I haven’t used this BMS in particular before, only the 10-17S one before.
The weird reading comes from the missing lead messing up the way the BMS reads voltage. You could just solder that one to the reatbof the group, but i recomend soldering all of them together at the back of the BMS and removing all but one of those leads that go to your group 16.
After that you should be able to plug everything in and it will read lile it should. If it doesnt you will need to go into the settings menu and charge the BMS from 21s to 18s
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Thanks, ended up jumping them on the back of the BMS and all is reading well now 
Now need to ride it!
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house_exploding.gif
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Was able to just fit the 18s6p in a @tomiboi double stack enclosure. Had to get creative with the layout and used some 3D printed jigs to help support the cells, but she fits comfortably (already tested mounting it to the deck). Most difficult part was keeping the height down, so I ran everything through the channels on top of the groups. Copious amounts of fishpaper and kapton tape were used in there to keep everything separated safely. Pretty excited to get it moving (just need my @Skyart motors!)
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Dude, nice and clean. I couldn’t figure out a nice way to fit 18s into my tomiboi ds enclosure, this looks really well executed.
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Thanks! It was born out of complete stubbornness 
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I spent a lot of time in CAD trying to figure out if it would work at all. Originally I had the bottom jig for the groups the same on all of them, but I realized the enclosure tapers in a bit towards the bottom and it made them super tight when I put them in that way. I redesigned the jigs for the side groups to have a bevel on the corner so they could fit with squeezing against each other (they all had plenty of wiggle room).
They were all like that originally ^ before I realized I needed the bevel, and that I’d need to use the empty channel on top for wires. I could run it like that but I’d need a thick gasket for the enclosure and it’s already deep enough as it is.
You can see the beveled corners on the underside there from when I was testing it heat shrinked (shrunk? 
) to make sure it still fit the enclosure ok.
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I haven’t seen this done yet. Very nice job.
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Creating a significant bottleneck with your nickel with this method.
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Yeah, it’s less than ideal. If I had another 6-7mm on top of the pack I would have done my original method and folded a larger piece over the top. This thing is maxed out on available space for sure.
This is how I wanted to do it originally when mocking it up with printed P groups but with the wires soldered on it would have been smushed against the deck and that’s no bueno
Yes technically, but with the nickel folded on one of the top angles it made a sharp point right at the top that I was not a big fan of. I could made the tab smaller to avoid the point, but it was essentially the same size as it is now (around 12mm wide)
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Yeah but you could have had one tab on each side
Anyone ever had this happen?
Some groups fully disappeared, so I checked all connections on the BMS, all were fine. Then I just plugged it into a charger and suddenly the dead groups reappeared…
Don’t like this at all!
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Im so paranoid about bms, that is no Bueno. Is that the Xiaoxiangbms app? Maybe it is an app error but i have never seen that. Definitely if it does anything weird again replace it and keep an eye on it closely while charging and order a new bms anyway just because.