The battery builders club

Wrong question. The right question is “what’s the maximum wattage my charger can dissipate?”

The charger is the limiting factor here, not the cells, the NESE connections or the wires/plugs.
The cells are good for 25+ amps each continuously, so 14A out of an 8P pack is less than 1/10 of what those cells will happily do.

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I see. Not that it’s needs my endorsement, but those NESE packs are cool. In both senses.

Now Sir, can I interest you in a lightly used hobby charger that does not have a buck boost converter that tried to melt its way out of the case?

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CtqcPszOVKI/?igshid=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==

I live streamed spot welding a small pack. It not brilliant, but it’s not bad. I have two more to finish. Might stream again if I feel cute.

Open to suggestions/critique of both the welding work and how it looked as media, and requests. I might have to equalize some cell voltages for the 3rd pack. ( used malelctrics and kweld. Switched battery half way through. 4s lifepo4 to 3s liion. )

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Is there anywhere in the US I can get an 18s bms?

What are decent ways to drain a 12s pack? The battery is sitting at full voltage, going to tear it down but rather discharge it down now if i can rather than individual cells

I have some buck converters for usb charging, drops it down to 5v 3a input, how long would it take to get down to 3.5v if i charged an ipad?

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except the batt charge output connector. It needs like a little 3d printed box with cable management that mounts extremely securely (drop proof).

I was experimenting with marking nickel to help make consistently spaced welds.

I used a scribe and straight edge to mark the nickel. Didn’t expect this:

It’s not just a visual guide, it’s a tactile stop and prevents probes from slipping off.

It helps with parallax error if you use probes at 45 deg from vertical. Helps if you have crusty probes that dont have a conical tips. The business end that’s going to do the work will catch the scribe mark and stop.

I’m not saying you should, but you could close your eyes and hit your mark better than I can trying to livestream and weld at the same time.

The machinists who do layout work are rolling their eyes right now.

A pack with and without scribed marks. I used a price of G10 with sticky on it that let me mark two vertical lines at once.




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Just putting together a pack for my bustin sportster in an eboosted enclosure doing some planning.

How is everyone wrapping the packs with the compartments?


Just cut for each compartment and then do an overlap in-between?

Edit, forget it… I’m getting rid of the compartments instead…I want more room anyway.

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Got the 30mm strips now, seems to be all good so far!

Thanks for the tip!

Shoulda left more meat on those

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Replying to me? Well they gotta fit between the plastic.

Where’d you get those cell holders?

With the PCB kit that I am building.

Woops can’t edit the post. But if you look at the post I replied to you can see the history of it all in this thread

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Fair enough

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wonder if anyone would use this for something

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@Fosterqc, Skatan, did you call my name? I am here.



I can’t take this product seriously with that name. Do you have one on you?

Can anyone break down the claim “as efficient as 8awg”.

Aka, “can be used in place of…”. I want to believe.

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Is there any way I can repair this worn connection on my Roomba? It has a hard time getting a good contact with the charger.

I don’t have a spot welder or anything tho…

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My dad used to use pencil eraser for shit like that. Toy trains and police radios like stuff. Worked pretty good, ive used it for things in my life, id give it a go on that if it was my problem, cant promise itll work but it would be easy?

you are only showing half. the other side looks kinda like springs right? that is where I would modify it to work better.