Hell yeah pink is a sick color. Theres a reason half my build is pink and purple lol.
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Anyone knows where can I order some small 58V rated holder for this fuse sized fuse?
Im searching for a while know and just cant find any.
(I would use this with a 50.4V/4A charger)
You don’t really have to be concerned with the voltage rating for the in-line holders as long as the fuses are rate appropriately. Personally, I wasn’t able to find holders for that particular fuse.
These fuses:
Go with these holders tho:
https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/576-0FHM0001ZXJ-RED
WhenI bought the holders they were red wire and are now showing black wire but they should still be compatible. You may wanna email mouser to confirm though…
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Thanks! I dont know how I missed them…
Im leaving this here for anyone in the future, it’s in stock and rated for 58V ( even tho it seems like not a hard req it gives me a peace of mind to have properly rated stuff. I mean if I buy something new why not buy the proper one)
I’m using the high voltage cycle satiator to charge a 4s lifepo pack bc I don’t have a CCCv 14.4v wall plug.
If I would have just bought this 5 years ago, it would be cheaper and better than all the CCCV bought.
It could charge a 24s (100v). I didn’t realize it could also do the pedestrian small packs as well. 
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I’ve had this charger for a few years now and it’s just flawless. It’s spendy but worth every penny if you’re charging different chemistries and different EV’s at unqiue voltages. Plus- portable, fanless and sleek af.
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I used a 12s charger on a 13s battery for a charge. Can i just use any voltage charger to charge any voltage pack? it would not be a full charge, just like a 10-minute ‘test charge’ … Dont wanna have to buy a bunch of different chargers
No.
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You can do this for testing but you won’t be able to properly let your bms balance the cells.
This happens and the top end of the the charge which you will not reach as you will stop charging at 50.4 instead of 54.6
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Not an issue. Cells are at 3.6v and I just need to charge for under 5-10 minutes. Would anything bad happen if i used a 18s charger on a 12s pack? again just for 5 minutes.
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What’s a safe max current I can continuously pull out of a Nese pack that on the bench?
I have a 2s8p of moli 42a.
I need to bleed off some voltage. Using a balance charge with a programable in minimum input current. In this case 7v, giving me 3.5v per P group, which matched the rest.
Will be air cooled. Don’t know who made the nese enclosures. Klause was using them to store new cells.
Edit: my bad. The look like complete sets made by @Agniusm. I bet the real answer is, what kind of auto zone grade lugs did I use to connect the terminals.
I don’t want to talk about it.
It did 100w for 25 min. Cooler than the fan motor nearby. The bright thing is the charger it’s self.
Wrong question. The right question is “what’s the maximum wattage my charger can dissipate?”
The charger is the limiting factor here, not the cells, the NESE connections or the wires/plugs.
The cells are good for 25+ amps each continuously, so 14A out of an 8P pack is less than 1/10 of what those cells will happily do.
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I see. Not that it’s needs my endorsement, but those NESE packs are cool. In both senses.
Now Sir, can I interest you in a lightly used hobby charger that does not have a buck boost converter that tried to melt its way out of the case?
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CtqcPszOVKI/?igshid=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==
I live streamed spot welding a small pack. It not brilliant, but it’s not bad. I have two more to finish. Might stream again if I feel cute.
Open to suggestions/critique of both the welding work and how it looked as media, and requests. I might have to equalize some cell voltages for the 3rd pack. ( used malelctrics and kweld. Switched battery half way through. 4s lifepo4 to 3s liion. )
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Is there anywhere in the US I can get an 18s bms?
What are decent ways to drain a 12s pack? The battery is sitting at full voltage, going to tear it down but rather discharge it down now if i can rather than individual cells
I have some buck converters for usb charging, drops it down to 5v 3a input, how long would it take to get down to 3.5v if i charged an ipad?
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except the batt charge output connector. It needs like a little 3d printed box with cable management that mounts extremely securely (drop proof).
I was experimenting with marking nickel to help make consistently spaced welds.
I used a scribe and straight edge to mark the nickel. Didn’t expect this:
It’s not just a visual guide, it’s a tactile stop and prevents probes from slipping off.
It helps with parallax error if you use probes at 45 deg from vertical. Helps if you have crusty probes that dont have a conical tips. The business end that’s going to do the work will catch the scribe mark and stop.
I’m not saying you should, but you could close your eyes and hit your mark better than I can trying to livestream and weld at the same time.
The machinists who do layout work are rolling their eyes right now.
A pack with and without scribed marks. I used a price of G10 with sticky on it that let me mark two vertical lines at once.
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