Where would I place the temperature probe for an onboard battery capacity monitor? on the battery cell wall, or on the nickel where the current flows?
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Cell wall.
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Get your P45Bs for 7.50 kids.
Son of a gun…
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Building an ebike pack, 16s12p. LG 14.4A cells = 172A peak draw.
Using the stock controller it would be pulling a max of 85A from the battery which is fine, but on an aftermarket controller that can pull a lot more, what would the limits be?
Im using full nickel rolls, 0.2mm x 100mm, cut into about 80mm wide by 125mm long strips covering the cell groups.
sold out 
This is a good reference for specing out a pack. Looks like your nickel should handle anything your cells can throw at it.
Main leads and connector would have to be upgraded beyond esk8s standard 10awg/xt90 to use packs full potential safety.
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Any idea of a number for a limit? as these controllers can pull like 400a and im wondering what the limit of the nickel would be if i used more powerful cells.
6awg and qs8 connector
The scale for .2 goes up linearly so add the 50/30mm together for rating.
Can always beef up the series connections with copper to pull more, but then youll probably be pushing the limits of the 6awg/qs8.
Doubt you’ll need to unless your talking full e-moto stuff.
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Lol yeah that was from their old china supplier
It took me a second to realize this was a printed guide and not a battery with chicken pox
that looks familiar
Holy hell, it’s insane to me that someone was actually willing to sell something of that “quality”.
Joints look fine. Could be better could be worse. They’ll probably be functional enough if they passed the pull test. Only concern would be this wire here:
You stripped the wire a bit too long and you’ve got a live wire attached to a pos terminal hanging out right by the shoulder of a cell. I’d shove some fish paper in between the exposed wire and the cell if I were you.
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Can anyone tell from just this if the BMS is being bypassed for discharging? Or if it isn’t, if this BMS can handle high discharge?
I don’t want to tear it down further if I don’t need to since I don’t have any of the weird smelling yellow tape on hand to replace anything I have to cut through to open it up further. So far I cut through the very outside tape where it won’t matter which tape I close it back up with plus the heat shrink wrap alone can hold the plastic board in place if I decide to not tape it back.
I don’t really want to use painters or packaging tape on anything directly in contact with the battery though since they don’t have a high heat resistance
Looks like discharge is through the BMS
Just double checked some of the diagrams and you’re right. Thankfully the pack was built with the negative output facing the outside so it won’t require significant tear down to reach.
Is there any standard wire gauge for connecting the negative to the p- on the bms though? Since I know I’ll need to add that back.
I have 26awg wire and then 12 awg but the 12 is overkill and will be hard to fit in nicely. The balance wires all have larger 22awg on them though so I’m worried the 26 is too small
Here is this if it helps/matters:
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Looks like these wires could rub through eachother with vibration.
AFAIK this is a no-no in good pack building
This pack has been in use for a while already and there are 0 signs of any wear on any of them. This battery is used and 5 years old. Plus there isn’t really any way for them to move around on their own with how rigidly built it is. I can throw some liquid electrical tape on them before I close it up to be safe.
But that is only AFTER I’m done with all soldering. That shit is flammable when still wet 
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hot glue would probably be fine and much less of a pita to deal with
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