A 3D print to pre-dent the positive side would also be a plus. Nice approach.
@ISOgone4good ya this is also possible. If this is the case you’ll notice that group charging and discharging at a faster rate than the rest of the pack. Cycle the pack a couple of times and observe the uniformity of (dis)charge.
I’ve made a few packs before but all flat or flexi ones with copper bus bars. This is the first brick pack.
I had a look at his packs and still can’t see what he does with the P groups in the middle of the brick? I’m guessing a tab is attached to the negative at the bottom and a balance wire fed up through the middle to the top then the whole thing siliconed. ?
Yes, folded nickel tabs are used for the bottom connections and all the balance leads are routed either along the top or sides of the pack.
Not sure what you mean here but assuming you’re talking about securing and insulating the leads…
This is a good reference thread too. Lots of solid balance lead routing here.
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I’ll take a pic of mine later in the week. As it’s a 14s3p sole of the groups are in the centre of the pack so it’s not an option for have the balance wires out the side. They’ll have to come up through the middle of the pack.
lol 
nice build
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Why no bms? Or at least harness for balance charging?
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Daly dumb or flexiBMS lite would easily fit with moving.
Pretty scary not having charge protection. Get an unlucky bad cell, or some loose nickel and shit can get hairy.
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So it doesn’t seem like one group is charging faster than the others. It just drops about .173V for a second or two then returns to normal. It will do this while riding and charging.
I assume it’s a loose weld or something. I just don’t know how to go about breaking the pack down and trouble shooting p group 12
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It won’t if everything is hunky dory. Say you have loose nickel or a bad cell, that group will charge faster. The charger won’t stop till 50.4v, but one will be over charged and the rest under.
BMS will stop the charging b4 the bad group over charges.
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I think you are wildly mistaken.
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Yeah. It seems like one of the primary reasons they exist…?
Because it never went out of balance.
This is not an argument to not use a bms.
It’s sheer arrogance and ignorance.
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Assumptions are the mother of all fuck ups.
I don’t care if you don’t want to use a bms dude. But please don’t advocate for it and spread bullshit propaganda about it on a public forum.
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Lol good luck, don’t die.
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Balancing normally isnt needed in the early part of the cells life cycle. As they age the IR varies more from cell to cell and balancing is needed.
That aside, running without a bms is gambling your and your families health and welfare. Not a risk many with proper knowledge of packs would take.
@BenjaminF you have any input on the subject? 
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rofl lolz 
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Whats gonna tell you something is wrong b4 it goes in flames? Shit happens quick
Whataboutism
BMS’s can’t save gross neglegence of pack assemblies/care. It can save some anomalies that that the builder doesnt have much control over.
Better yet, a smart bms can show you red flags long b4 they are a big issue, which then can be repaired instead of tossed or burn your shit down.
Definitely some mental gymnastics going on to justify saving a couple hrs of work.
Hope your shit don’t burn down, but if it does, you’ll know why
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If that’s the case I’d have a profesh look at it. You would have to unwrap the battery entirely for starters. Then, you have to locate cell 12 (your main neg terminal will be on this group). Then, check the connections of the balance lead at the cell and at the bms harness as above. You would also need to inspect the nickel for broken welds. If you’re not comfortable and/or don’t have the knowledge as to how to go about doing this, I’d pay someone 
Your battery is still a baby and it’s worth fixing. Do u have someone local you trust?