The battery builders club

You are probably still waking up, he is comparing the same number of batteries, 10s10p vs 5s20p vs 20s5p. :slight_smile:

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Oh Jeez you’re right

:man_facepalming:

Made them again for you, 170kv motors, 16/60 160mm 20wh/km

You are right about the thermal, but just in theory, should it not be on alle 3 the same speed and range?

Thanks but why is that so? I know it’s quite a noob quest, but I’m interested in the explanation.

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Voltage is responsible for speed while Amps are responsible for torque(might be the wrong word).
Meaning that the higher voltage you have (the bigger series) the higher your max speed is, while the higher your amperage is (bigger parallel) the stronger it is.

Now when you take the motor into account. The ESC can adjust the duty cycle, which in a very inaccurate but simple explanation is that voltage is turned into amperage. The reverse is not possible unless I am wrong.

See Battery Amps, Motor Amps and Duty Cycle... Please Explain for explanations from people who know this better.

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#2 might have slightly less range if you are pushing it hard. The battery would produce more heat due to needing more amps for the same power output.

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Because all 3 battery’s have the same wattage that’s what decides the range

Newton’s third law of motion. Formally stated, Newton’s third law. For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction.

Do it double the speed takes 1/2 the time

Carry twice as much do it in 1/2 the time

Have 2 do the job do it 1/2 the time

Resitance has less of an effect on higher voltage so Look at were you system is wasting energy by turning it in to some thing undesired. Heat/sound/light/ect

Other things will increase Efficient to Lighter rider, less wind drag less, less heat, ect

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That’s true, but has the speed not also be the same? I mean, I understand, that voltage creates speed and current creates torque, but wattage creates also speed not torque. A car with 100HP and 200nm is almost as fast as a car with 100HP and 100nm (on the straight line) there is no big difference between them. So I was expecting that in ESK8 we would experience the same thing. But apparently it isn’t.

looks like it is nickel, scratched and took a Dremmel to it, no sparks, been sitting in salty water for 2 days and no sign of rust, should 2 days be long enough to test?

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any issues with doing it like this? (with spot welds rather than magnets :wink:

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Magnets wont hold by themselves which means you wont have a reliable connection. Spot weld or bust.

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Actually I used magnets many times. They are very helpful.


This battery is spotwelded+ epoxy+magnets
Shockproof. At the sphere many guys did weldless packs with just magnets and epoxy with great success. Must be done thoroughly or will fail.

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No welds just magnets and glue sounds like loosing a cell in a P group and it all going very wrong city.

At the same time totally seems legit to me.

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this is the best use of 25mm wide nickel, series and parallel connection at the same time!

Where did you buy your 25mm nickel? How much was it and is it .15mm?

Just for security’s sake, the positive end of the charger connects to the positive of the battery and the C- cable on the BMS connects to the negative end of the charger, yes?

25mm 0.15 nickel from Ebay here

absolutely not recommended for esk8. Those who did it at the sphere are using the packs on dual suspension ebikes. We have a totally different level of vibrations. I’d never do it for my builds. If well done the tabs do not move at all or at least that’s what they reported.

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in case your bms has separated ports YES