The battery builders club

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What I have found to be a bit easier to do in these areas is to have two solder points, connected with a small piece of braid as a bus, then the end of the lead on one of the solder points. It functions the same, and eliminates having to deal with many strands or multiple insulation gaps in the wire.

And since you’re using braid already it’d just be an extra couple pieces.

Food for thought, at any rate.

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When I’ve done these I used one 10awg pre twisted and tinned, the soldered it onto the nickel, also pretinned, before welding it to the pack

Seems to work out alright. The charge wire I attached somewhere else on the strip - this strip could have been a bit longer it seems - still perfectly functional though

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All done.

Thanks for the input, that’s good advice. :slight_smile:

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That should really be the default :frowning:

Now that I think about it, i might have experienced the same when I first got my Ubox, only that I flashed it two days after…

Why is this the first we are hearing of this lol @jack.luis

I’ve never heard of this either

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It’s a pretty cool feature, I always wondered why the fishpaper ring wasn’t just a part of the cell lol

(yes I know some battery building techniques take + and - from the top)

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I don’t believe this is unique to the P42A. I’ve seen the same thing on Samsung and LG cells.

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When removing nickel from reclaimed packs I’ve accidently sparked the area marked in red as the plastic insulator doesn’t go all the way to the edge.

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I don’t know if it really matters for pack building. Probably worth putting a fish paper ring on for added protection though

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The ring on the 30q is definitely not the same as this one that @ducktaperules is talking about

But yeah it doesn’t really hurt

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Aren’t they both just plastic rings?

Maybe - the ones on the 30q are very thin though.

I have to imagine if @ducktaperules is specifically mentioning only the P42a, specifically the black ring, that they are at least thicker on the P42a

So my understanding is that these plastic rings are better for abrasion resistance but not as good as fish-paper at dealing with heat.

My personal thoughts is that if your nickel is reaching temperatures that are hot enough to melt that plastic insulator then really you’ve already got bigger issues.

And i personally don’t think the 30q, or most other Samsung cells, need fish paper rings in a well designed pack. In a well designed pack there should be little to no opportunity for any fault to occur where the internal plastic ring would not be sufficient.

That said, i would still recommend FP rings to novice pack builders as it cant do any harm to have extra protection.

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I’ve tested these rings with abrasives and sharps, and they aren’t as robust as FP. They slice pretty easily, and don’t gum up an abrasive like FP does.

With regard to heat, it’s sometimes a factor when packs have soldering near the edge of a cell. Compression from certain nickel installations may end up squishing the plastics as they deform under heat.

That’s not to say your specific pack encounters this, it doesn’t look like it does.

However that’s not an uncommon scenario for commercial packs, and I’ve become more familiar with them this year.

So I don’t think it’s necessarily to say that Molicels don’t require additional insulation. They seem to be more robust than other cells, absolutely, in that area.

However the requirement of an insulation ring remains more so a factor of the pack design and assembly than the quality of plastic a cell manufacturer uses.

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How are all of you guys leaving your batteries to die :grimacing: omg does everyone not constantly check all of their batteries like twice a day? Just me?

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Twice a day?? Someone has control issues here lol

I do it maybe once a week if I don’t ride the board.

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Paranoia Lol is more like it

Agreed but again you shouldn’t have sharps floating around near the ends of the battery in a well designed pack.

Yeah there is huge variance in “commercial packs”. I have seen some packs that are amazingly designed and others that you can tell were built in china by the lowest bidder. I have seen “commercial” ebike packs that most novice battery builders here wouldn’t even considering storing in their house.

This is the key really and im in full agreement, the pack design makes all the difference. If the designer has considered these things then additional protectors serve no purpose. If the pack is being built in a way where these parts of the cell can be exposed then it cant hurt to add them.

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This :arrow_up: :arrow_up: :arrow_up:

Especially if you are making a flex pack, you need these rings to protect from the heat of soldering the series connections…

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I assumed the rings were for if you accidentally miss your weld on the positive end, so you dont weld the + to the - , among other uses

I gunked up my original reply, so I’ll just redo it. My apologies…as if anyone actually cares.

Well sure, but ifs abound, and writing the addition of insulating rings on manufacturing instructions costs essentially nothing to the client.

Agreed, but things happen. It’s a similar vein of precaution as a seatbelt or airbag.

I can’t account for what a battery customer does with an eskate pack or what it’s subjected to, or how it’s installed or what’s around it.

And I do agree with your stipulations. However a battery builder may want to account for things outside of their design. Accidents, harsher use, etc.

While I understand we’re all just speculating here, and toying with ideals, it doesn’t seem particularly costly to add them. And at least for the variety of things I’ve encountered, realistically, it’s of little use to hinge on the assumption that the P42A’s plastic rings are going to cure what ails the risk bubble of a battery.