Like @BenjaminF said, for god sake don’t put more heat into that battery!
How exactly are you planning to do this connection? I don’t really think we’re on the same boat…
When sanding, make sure you cover up ANYTHING that’s not what you’re sanding. You don’t want that dust inside your battery… I’m sure you already know this, but make sure you clean the ends of the cells with some alcohol once you’re finished sanding
Hello guys! I have a problem, maybe professionals have idea.
I bought a 12s6p 30q battery.
There are burned points at the end of my battery, what almost new (used total 40kms). I made a diy board and some happenings were before i realised the burnings…
One time the charge port was bad, it is also burned (shortcircuit)
Then one of my vesc dead (also shortcircuit).
The bms was discharged that time, it was 40a.
The cells still good, but i have to sure i fixed the problems, i dont want to burn it.
I changed bms to bypassed, but i will use fuses.
I made stronger the end of the battery, because the wire started to melt down.
So do you think it caused any other parts shortcircuit, or the battery construction is weak and can’t hande 40 amps. (I’d like to use it with 120a already now with bypassed bms).
The way how that looks is as if something got in and caused it to short circuit. But that nickel looks weak. Make sure not to add a fuse to the discharge wires… only for the charge port. And lastly, where did you purchase that pack? Usually that’s a sign of “bad work” doing. But you can probe your discharge wire with a multimeter and measure the voltage and see if it still gives you the 12s voltage.
No, It looks as if the burnt was from the nickel. But I do not recommend adding the fuse. If that broke during your ride, let’s just say this would be our final conversation. The battery construction looks iffy, however, if you can charge it and then do a quick test with a different vesc-based esc, you can check whether or not it can do 120A. Although, that only does 90 amps max.
I think a second opinion would be helpful here as well.
That battery is built poorly. They only used one thin nickel strip for the series connctions. At 20-30A that tiny strip just can’t handle the current and get’s super hot. That’s probably why it melted the heatshrink.
The best option would be to have a decent battery builder rebuild that pack.
I’ve soldered thousands of cells and I’m still alive and cells still working as they should be, think your being a bit patantic. A small bit of heat for a few seconds does nothing.
A hole does matter it will start bubbling as it leaking.
I’ve made batterys from recycled cells With holes and they all start to leak and they loose the capacity of the cell.
What do you think welding does? generates heat
soldering on cells is fine, I’ve never seen a datasheet on a cell that’s says do not solder.
I solder every pack I make then every cell can be used for another day unlike welding, where the cel can be danaged when nickel is ripped off and holes made.
looking better? (did everything that people told me) single piece of 25mm wide 0.2mm nickel folded on the side for soldering to
added extra welds for strength (8 per cell instead of 6)