My window opens about an inch to prevent people from jumping out as I live in a high-rise building. I do have a fan pointed straight at my face to keep everything away from me as best as possible.
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Yeah what about something like this? Trust me a good venting setup is worth it. Just careful not to backvent other stuff like plumbing and gas appliances. 
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@glyphiks @moddedlife So I found the issue, I sized up all the wiring and connectors and made everything as short as possible. I’m getting solid pure nickel welds at 26MS now.
Cant believe it was this simple… I think I’ll upgrade my tips too.
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Yeeewwww! Excellent news 
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If it was a professionally made pack then this is ott as it is.
You need to think about how you use materials and why.
Li ion shrink rap is good as a insulator but easily damaged by friction. We use fish paper as it’s good agains abrasion
Is part A going to potenchal rub and vibrate agains part B and do these parts have voltage potenchal?
2 cells with in a p group the out side is - and there is no potenchal difrence no issue if that touch
P group 2 may rub agains P group 3 yes voltage potenchal add fish paper were thay meet.
You have raped both p groups so you have added redundancy as there will now be 2 layers between the p groups. This is not needed but also doesn’t hurt (apart from useing more space, materials, time)
When you add fish paper you use space up and now the cells can’t get as close as thay could befor. This means where the fish paper is a little short there is now a permeant air gap so thay can’t rub agains another p group. As @glyphiks said put it as close to the positive end as possible this is because of the nickle that you may be wrapping around later
And this is why a lot of non battry builders think well made pre built are over priced. Lots of ways to save time by taking short cuts to offer a cheaper battry . why we see so many opened packs in with bad workman ship as once it’s shrink raped no one really checks.
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@Battery_Mooch Do you know who set the nominal voltages for different cell types? Is there some sort of international battery cartel?
Why do Lipos get 90% of their capacity above the nominal voltage (3.7) while Li-ions get 50% above the nominal 3.6v? Surely it completely throws the Watt hours comparisons out of the window.
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Each manufacturer sets the nominal voltage for their cells but the chemistry of the cell sets a narrow range of values.
Any cell’s nominal voltage or nominal capacity spec is useless for calculating and comparing Wh specs unless you are using the cell at verrrrry low current levels. That is how the nominal specs are set.
At the discharge current levels we use cells at the Wh numbers are much lower and can vary considerably depending on how hard the cells are used. Two cells can have equal nominal values but have completely different specs for the Wh delivered at higher current levels. This is due to the cell’s chemistry and internal resistance.
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My first brick battery. I have .15 x 25mm pure nickel. Do ya think it will be ok for 80 amps max. 10s8p …3500mah 10a lg mj1 cells. Series rails will be soldered 8 ga copper
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Seems like it would be cleaner if you used braided cable instead
is that 10AWG???
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I would have done diagonal connections from the end of one group to the opposite end of the next group.
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Looks like it, I would have used 2 12 probably depending on amp draw.
@Linesflag you could probably just remove all of the small ones
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Unless I’m mistaken, that’s 8s 10p?
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Yes. 
I tried, but I only got pretty thick one here and my 60w iron is not powerful enough. 
Isn’t that crossing over? I think the way I did it is a bit safer, although diagonal would probably have looked nicer.
That pack is pushing 210A, 12awg is kinda small isn’t it…
Yess. I need sleep. Im building two bricks.To many cells on the brain. Will the .15 nickel be ok or is .2 needed
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Well I didn’t know what the amp draw was, so no, probably not 2 12 but 3 12 is probably enough for most of the series ones and then 10 for the output
You doing 4wd or something like that?