Do you guys think this has a chance?
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Guys, I just received a pure nickel strip and tried to weld it to a Samsung 25R with no luck.
I have a DIY microwave spot welder. I used it before with no issues and built some battery packs,
but with non pure nickel strips. Now, with the pure one, I can’t get any strong welds at all, the welds
are too weak and the nickel strips fall straight away.
What can I do to improve this? I think that the pen I use have non quality pins, but I’m not sure if that is the only reason for this to happen.
Nickle Coated steel is a lot easya to weld due to its higher resistance so you don’t need as many amps.
If your struggling to weld pure Nickle try paralleling a 2nd battery doing a load in quickly see what part is heating up on your welder improve that.
I see. Thanks for the info.
My spot welder is powered by AC, I’m not using batteries to power it. I need more powerrrrr
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Anybody have about 10ft nickel strip in the USA? Before I buy a bunch online…?
Alternatively, if you want to split an order with me, I’m down for that, too
Yes… Half way down first post… I have wiring and some other bits that might be of interest too 
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I’ll add my 2 cents here… Made a rookie move lol… I spaced out while glueing but made all my 6p offset packs the same instead having half mirrored… If you dont know what that means it means that when I flip every other pack during assembly they wont line up and lock in… =(
So had to tear down the packs and restructure…
Good news is all.my weld were nice n solid… Bad news… Time to break out the dermal for some clean up…
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Haha, awesome. PM incomming!
You can try to reduce resistance. Thicker shorter cables, stout connectors, beefier probes.
Are you sure those welds are strong enough?
I own and have heavily modded my OW+. I’ve seen spikes up to 18a, but the bluetooth update rate isn’t fantastic with 3rd party apps that can read that data. So I would prepare for up to 40a spikes. If you keep the original battery in there as a buffer, the two together can smooth that out to around 8-10a constant through a vampire connector.
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yup…pictures were taken before i posted, and posted after i ripped em apart… wish I didnt have to do clean up but its also confirmation the welds were good
Yes you are exactly who I am trying to talk to about this project
It has a dead battery but that’s it.
Getting a buying date arranged
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I have a 12S li-ion pack here would it work good with that? Or will the controller no likey
There are a lot of disassembly videos but no like, wiring diagrams.
So that’s a V1 onewheel. I would look for a + model. The motor just isn’t as strong on the V1, higher top speed but not much tourque. For the most part people have abandoned it. For $400 though, I guess just slap one of the ego batteries on the fender and wire that direct to the controller and call it a day.
Stock battery is a 16 cell NMC battery at 59v fully charged. It can be swapped for a 14s li-ion battery. Or you can use both together if the stock battery isn’t entirely screwed. That way you still get accurate percentage readouts in the app and the on/off button still works normally.
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Huh I actually kinda thought it was a plus. 
I was also thinking about controller swapping it, but you say it’s the motor that is worse than the +/XR.
They are all rated 750W is it different KV or something?
I guess I won’t try to off-road it much.
And yes battery on top of the fender is the plan.
I could make a battery that fits the concave.
Different KV and stator design. The + and XR share the “hypercore” motor which is custom. While the OG V1 used a modified off the shelf motor.
You can tell it’s a + by the footpads, the + and XR will share the newer style.
Controller swap won’t work either, and at that point you might as well just buy a whole XR (which happens to use 18650’s like every other board… finally)
I would avoid fender batteries, changes weight distribution and really messes up how it rides. If you want to just swap the battery, look into the two-x system. I’ve been using it for 1000+mi with no issues and it gives me the range I want. It works on the V1 as well.
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We’re you thinking switch to a XR controller?
I would controller swap to a VESC 6 with a Gyro IMU.
For the battery (because I thought it was a plus) I wanted to use 14S1 or 2p headway 38120 and build it into a arch shape.
Bonus no spot welding and durable vibration resistant connections.
Fuck it maybe I’ll rewind the stator.
Still maybe better than a Chinese clone hub.
If I forget about motor power, give it more range than the XR (easy) and for less than the pint… Still a win.
what AWG wire should i use to discharge p groups with from the balance plug? 1 amp only.