I think you are gonna be taking your life into your own hands if you plan to push those cells to their ‘limits’
But definitely curious to see how they work out for you 
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lol yeah nek minute my feet get melted off when these cells hit thermal runaway at 30A and explode 
noice 
Apexium is another brand for Efest.
These cells claim to have a 25A continuous rating but have a “temperature limited” rating of 35A. But any 25A cell can be used at 35A if voltage sag and overall cell life aren’t the priority.
These are most likely cells from one of the smaller China factories that Efest uses. The cell-to-cell consistency isn’t as good as those from the big manufacturers (as you can see at the start of the discharges) but this isn’t a big deal for most people. Cycle life can be worse though.
If they can be found for a much lower price than the VTC5A and P26A they could be worth it if cost is the priority.
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Thanks for the info Mooch!
Yes these cells are less than half the price of the VTC5A from the same wholesaler, although only 20% cheaper than the VTC5. Would you go for the Apexium or the Sony VTC4 at the same price?
I assume it would come down to priorities as you stated. Current rating vs capacity vs matching cell discharge etc.
I don’t know anything about the performance of that Apexium so I’m not able to compare it to other cells. Check around for pricing on VTC5A’s and Molicel P26A’s. You might find someone having a sale.
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All right kids.
Could one of you be as kind as pointing me to a build or write up that has an exemplary brick style pack.
I’m embarking on my first one.
12s7p p42
Ltt smart BMS.
0.2mm x 30 nickel.
That is as far as I have gotten.
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I wish that I could direct you to my battery building tutorial on the FreeSK8 forum, but it is still a work in progress 
Perhaps some progress pictures could help to guide you along? One moment please.
Now this layout makes life very easy, since the p-groups are straight lines. Get some wide nickel (30mm) and you are golden.
Things get a little harder when you have funky shapes of p-groups, such as this:
The way I cheat to make life easier is to still glue together straight lines of cells, even if im glueing together cells of different p-groups. (Notice in the picture below how some cells are the opposite direction from the ones they are glued to).
Then when I glue it all together, im still just pressing together flat rows, rather than trying to stick weird shapes onto the brick.
Let me know if you have any questions! 
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I would like to highlight this step. It’s a bit of a pain, I use the handle of a small screwdriver to mold the fish paper into the valley. I you don’t form fit it the pack will bulge.
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I like to use noneadhesive fishpaper for this part
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It’s a bit tricky. Because you have to cut it to the right length, then compress the whole pack and tape it so it keeps its shape…but as they say “we haaaave the technology!”
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Bookmarked for when I build my mountainboard lol
Are those 3D printed or did you just buy a bunch of cell separator things
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They are called spines, I just buy them but they are an easy print
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First time ever trying refurbished batteries from NKON
LG MJ1
I’ll be testing them tonight to see how much capacity those have. 
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Who else is in love with the fact that you can disable charging of a board with an LTT smart BMS with the touch of a button on your phone even if the board isn’t in the room
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My Bluetooth is not that strong lmao. But thinking about that. Any idea if you can automatically stop it charging at a certain voltage? Like 3.8 per cell or sum.
In my apartment I charge my board in the living room and I’m usually at my desk in the bedroom so it’s still super close (9’ and a thin wall)
I don’t know, I haven’t played with it that much, all my settings are still stock
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There is a “Full CHg. Voltage ___ mV” so I think you can just use that
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