The battery builders club

If I’m setting my vesc to stop at 90 battery amps… two layers of nickel would suffice. .2mm 10mm wide.

Input. I want to be lazy. Thinking of putting a thermistor next to the nickel and doing some load tests. I think 2 layers will suffice,. The second kayer starting at the third or fourth cell in parallel to save nickel.
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For science. What can I get away with.

3 layers would surely work perfectly

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The geometry makes a big difference, the layout will greatly affect the current distribution

Moving the connection from the end to the middle cuts the max current in half

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I’m aware .

But going for speed

And all wires/ balance to come out one end.

Maybe I’m not optimally laying these out… r I’ve been known to have brain farts

Btw that stuff is ideally 20A per strip

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How are you doing series connections? If you have the 1:1 series connections you are fine, if it’s the ends that bottle neck do this


(10awg stripped and soldered down the entire length)

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Are you sure about this?

You could have used the form search

20A is good, 40A is the max

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Does this look like fake nickel rust formation to you guys? 2 days in salt water brine

Yes. . And based off 25% of copper. I’m trying to strike up a conversation of how much one can push. Before energy losses sue to resistance turn to heat. We are all going off some possibly arbitrary spreadsheet from dozens of years ago.

Hense my question

We aren’t; the newest numbers came from an actual live test.

It’s all in the thread. Feel free to submit more experimental results! :slight_smile: It’s a dynamic document.

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I’d say no.

But you give me a great idea. Next time I test, I will cut the test piece in half and toss half in the brine and keep half out so I can directly compare.

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Ok you want officer tables my regs book I use for work if I want to pull 90 Amps I use 25mm2 CSA copper cable after iv calculated grouping thermal factors. Nickle only conducts 22% vs copper. 0.2 X 10 IS 2mm CSA so 50 strips should do it if want to follow BS7671 standards

A car starter motor normally uses 100A ish to start up look at you car battery cables

@Battery_Mooch you said you might look in to nickle and cables. I would really like to know what temp the nickle gets to when sandwiched between battery’s

100 amps at 11 volts it’s not the same at 45 volts

When talking about ohmic (resistive) heating of materials it’s exactly the same. :slightly_smiling_face: The heating loss in watts = current * current * resistance.

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Someone is sending me a few samples of wire/strip to play with and figure out what testing I could do that would be of use to the community. If anyone has a good variety of strip (thicknesses, metal types, widths) give me a holler. :slightly_smiling_face:

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The biggest problems are that there are voltage drops and heating at any current level. The higher the current, the greater the losses…of course.

Where does the loss become unacceptable? That depends a lot on the person’s priorities and the size/weight/dollar budget for the build. The community will have to establish limits for losses and then test to those.

Or, if a go/no-go limit is not needed the losses can just be recorded for various configurations and each person determines the losses for their setup and decides what widths/gauges of strip and wire to use.

It gets a LOT more complicated than that depending on the build’s configuration as each component contributes to heating or cooling of another nearby component. But, rough numbers can be gotten.

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That was a different battery going into a much deeper enclosure. This one is going in an enclosure made for 18650’s. I don’t usually use copper braid but this pack needs to be thin.

100% not solder wick. Give me some credit :woozy_face:

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4153412281. I’ll send a shitload

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It’s just a matter of time & resources. We’re a small independently owned & funded venture so have to be somewhat strategic. Right now full focus is on FreeSK8 offerings and we’ll be circling back to batteries when our BMS is stood up.

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