I torch and use the puller at the same time. It’s the waiting for loctite to cure that gets me.
It’s the wating for the loctite to cure that gets me re fitting pinions next outing because I didn’t. ( also it’s the curse of @ShutterShock watching 
)
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good thing you don’t have to woory as much with straigut cuts 
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Unfair.
How’d you do it so fast 
Undoing and re-locktighting 16 bolts and 4 gears takes me 2+
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Haha to be honest it probably was a few hours. I dont really keep track but it was long and tedious.
Seeing @ShutterShock’s nomination of my board for Build of the Year (BOTY), I figured this thread was overdue for an update.
And oh boy.
do I have updates.
I recommend you save this one for when you’ve got some minutes to spare
Gear Ratio Update/Overheating
Last I left this thread, I was going to be doing experiments with different gear ratios to try and solve my overheating and inefficiency issues. I switched from the 22T pinions that I started with to the 18T pinions. I raced with them for a couple weeks, but wasn’t able to get any good A/B testing to compare to the 22T pinions, as the temperature outside cooled off around the same time.
However, Qualitatively, the motors seemed to be getting hotter then they did before, relative to ambient temperature. Additionally, it didn’t help the board’s efficiency.
Very belated kuttos to @Flyboy and @Shadowfax for spouting facts.
After experimenting with the 18T pinions, I switched back to the 22T pinions before AVS Race-n-Ride, crossing my fingers that the slightly cooler weather would prevent my overheating issues(which it luckily did!)
The main reason that I did this though is because of a new issue that cropped up. At high speeds, 0~20% of the throttle would become a brake. The best way I can describe it is a “drag brake”. This meant that high speed turns that required braking became incredibly difficult, because going from braking to power would require that the throttle move through this range. Switching to the 22T didn’t eliminate the issue, but reduced it’s effect(it seems like it’s correlated with Motor ERPM).
What’s interesting is that I’ve seen this before. I left it out of my my first post for brevity, but when I first rode my stooge it was borderline rideable. Any speed above 10mph would cause the bottom half of the throttle to become “apply all the brakes”. Long story short, upgrading from firmware 5.03 to 6.02 fixed the issue (or, at least, made it undetectable).
So, my best guess is that this is an issue with the G300’s latest firmware. While not the most elegant solution, but switching back to 22T was the easiest way for me to alleviate this. Anyone had similar issues before?
Motor Inefficiency
I did set a new PB for inefficiency tho
Race-n-ride recap
Since my last update, I raced at Apple Valley for Race-n-Ride!
Feat. @hoytkid
Feat. Dylan C
Credit for AVS photos: Smls
Bonus: @poastoast hitting me with a drone
Every second that I wasn’t on track, I had the board plugged into a generator charging at 600W. I can’t express how amazing it was to not need to open up the bottom of the board to do this. Highly recommend all stooge riders look at doing a similar upgrade- really allowed me to focus and enjoy the race event by reducing the amount of “board admin” that I needed to do between race stints.
In other good news, the overheating stayed away! The board performed incredibly admirably. Most notably in qualifying, I chopped 10 seconds off my Riderfest qualifying time! I had set it just a few weeks earlier.
Here’s the race video if you want to watch yourself. (I’m 5th into turn 1)
Pro final race was about as exciting as they can get for us midfielders. After the opening lap, I was in a fierce battle for 3rd place with Jimmy Tran(edit: @zero_ads) until the checkered flag. With one lap to go, I briefly pull ahead on the exit onto the straight… but Jimmy managed to out-accelerate me down the straight. He did a great job of holding me off for the remainder of the race. Massive to @Ruxx who found the space to pass us both on the final lap, recovering his position from an earlier fall.
I’m immensely proud to say I ended finishing 5th in Pro class Everyone ahead of me deserved their place 1000%, and it was an honor to race amongst best.
360 Camera Mount
Oh, and yeah! Nothing fancy, a Insta 360 One X2.
Here’s bittersweet onboard footage of me briefly pulling ahead of Jimmy in 3rd place.
The mount is a gopro slide mount VHB taped onto the back of the board. I got a gopro to 1/4-20 adaptor attached to an extra gopro extension(that turns the bolt 90 degrees). This means that if the board ever flips, the camera will have both axies to bend along. This “mechanical fuse” will (hopefully) prevent it from becoming a lever, which would either cause the camera, board, or mount to break.
Sticker Logo!
A Reacher motor, literally wrenching an ankle
Thanks Jess from San Diego for this awesome logo! Naturally, I got it printed on holographic stickers and proceeded to put it on anything even remotely related to my raceboard.
I also got a bunch of non-holographic stickers made! Not sure what I’m going to do with 25 of them, so… uh… mention this to me at esk8con and I’ll give you a free one 
Megan
My board has a display now! This thing is just plain awesome.
Local logging, GPS tracking, responsive display, easy mounting, fault display, app integration… I could fill this whole post with praise. Like, I get push notifications on my phone when a vesc faults! So extra.
Installation was quick. I already had an extra set of CAN wires broken out, so all I had to do was crimp a replacement connector onto them. I had made a 3D printed replica of their baseplate, so quickly swapping that out for the metal one that came with it and I was done.
Big shoutout to @janpom and @rpasichnyk for their incredibly work on this product, I highly recommend it to anyone on the fence about it. Double shoutout for making a custom ARD case and programming a custom splash screen.
Brake Light
I wanted a brake light on my board. When I built my wiring harness, I left an extra PWM plug for exactly this purpose. I can get a microcontroller to “sniff” the PWM value from the receiver, and activate the brake light when the pulse is <1500ms.
Orrrrrr I could do what I do best and overengineer it. I could get addressable LEDs, have the microcontroller decode the braking percentage, and progressively light up the brake light to match how aggressively I’m breaking. And if I’m going that far, might as well do the same thing for throttle.
After spending a few weeks with it, there’s some code improvements I want to make to make the light even smoother… but it’s good enough for now. We’ll see if I ever get to them.
Faulting on Launch and Current Vesc Settings
Practicing Launches with Reggie Thomas and @Lyfe_Of_Jimmy, I ran into an issue of my G300’s throwing ABS_OVERCURRENT faults at low speeds. (previously I had thought it was my tires slipping, but the Megan graciously informing me of vesc faults)
Easy solution. Just increase Abs max to 600A
(If you look closely, you can see my blue then red acceleration and brake light mounted on the back of the board)
2024 delineation
I was told by Evan that any work done after 2023 can’t be used by voters for 2023 BOTY. So yeah, uh, don’t consider any of these other mildly cool things that I’ve done to the board in the past 19 days
A couple weeks of practice later, and my vesc settings are at 180A/motor. Not quite skilled enough to fullly handle that amount of power, but this is the most rad screenshot I’ve got right now.
Battery Amps: 269.5A
Total Motor Amps: 635.9A
Just for giggles, Battery Wattage: 269.5A*45.7 = 12.316 kW
Charging Brackets
Previously, the XT60 and DSUB15 connectors that I used for charging were only held on with some VHB tape. I printed some brackets with inserts, and they’re now mounted much more rigidly. So much easier to plug in a charging cable when the other connector isn’t moving all over the place. Go figure.
Power Switch
In tandem with the charging brackets, I finally got my power switch to work!
This one was a doozy, see if you can figure it out from these symptoms:
- When I didn’t have the power button connected, the board would power on fine.
- When I plugged in the power button the board would not power on, until I pressed the power button. After being powered on, it wouldn’t power off when the button was pressed or held.
After tearing my hair out with software, the problem ended up being that the ground side of the switch was put into the wrong pin on on of the G300s. By chance, this wrong pin was data line that is pulled low, but only when the G300 is in a powered off state. This is why the G300 would detect that the switch was plugged in. When it’s powered on though, that data pin would no longer be connected to ground (mostly), so the switch would no longer work properly.
Simply moving the pin to the correct position(ground) fixed the issue. After the power switch being installed for months, I can finally power on the board with one button press.
(The button next to the mount of the camera)
Tires
As of Wednesday, I have gone through my first set of BRPs
Moe’s out of stock right now… If anyone’s got a spare set they’re not attached to, hmu.
Belly pan Scraping
As I’ve improved my racing skills and pushing the limits of the board, I’ve begun regularly scraping my bellypan when going around turns. I’m expecting to wear a hole in it soon. I could probably fix it by adjusting the 3-links to allow for more turning, but I really like how my board is setup right now(and the front is already setup for at max turn).
I don’t use the full internal volume of the belly pan(see pictures of battery layout in 1st post), so I’m thinking about a custom bellypan with a different shape that which allows for higher deck angles before scraping. TBD, we’ll see. Definitely a high priority problem to solve, every fall I’ve taken thus far has been because of scraping(which unloads the tires and causes a slide).
Annnnnnd… Here’s how she stands today!
Bruised, battered, and hands down my favorite board.
Thank you to the numerous and great racers that I get to see every week. You guys help make projects like this possible
Congrats on making it to the end! I’m in your hands now.
Go and vote for build of the year 2023 (if you haven’t already) !
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Yeah babeh that’s me. That was such a fun race and great battle.
This so dope
Lol yes that’s one way. Wow can’t believe you can even raise it so high. However, if you look through my thread I battled with abs overcurrent for quite some time. It wasn’t until @Tony_Stark helped me with new detection numbers that it went away. I think you should look into it instead of having to raise it that high lol, cause that’s a bug. For reference I can now get away with 300 abs max and I have rears set to 185A power side.
That’s awesome to see.
Y’all should do some 0-20 times with a racebox very curious to see your times.
Front and back!? Damn are you not under steering the front like crazy? With just 70A to the front I break traction pretty easily.
Great setup man super cool to see you getting better on it. I’ll see you and @ShutterShock at Esk8con for the rematch.
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EYYYY ITS MEEE!! 
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$260 for a set damn. How long did they last
Pretty weird that people were complaining so hard about the wear life of the Hoyt 5in and Metroboard 153 when it seems like it would be cheaper to run those than these since you only need to buy new tires.
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Cheaper yes, but also slower. Racing you need the fastest option if up against the fastest.
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Yeah on the track it’s all about speed for sure. Daily riding is something else I suppose.
Oop I better go now… dissenting opinions and whatnot
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Let see you do 12’s on your newbee copies and little biscuit tires
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@fessyfoo would cord a set of 6" metro tires every 1.5 Intro2 speed sessions as I recall. At the time it was the best option we could find for track racing while BRP was in transition to new owners.
Some quick Tire and wheel math.
Riders would cord 4.64 metro tires over 6.96 intro 2speed sessions at $14.00ea to cover the cost of one BRP wheel. You would change that tire 4.64 times minimum with no flats.
In comparison, seven intro 2 speed sessions on the BRP wheel is money in the bank to the metro.
Predictability, longevity, reliability and a shit ton of grip is what the BRP wheel has made available to anyone.
In comparison to pneumatics, they do pencil. You are only as good as your contact patch.
BRP is a mom and pop ran shop making racing wheels since the mid 80s’. Their wheels are hand made with special care one wheel at a time. Like it should be.
Their tread and foam compounds are proprietary and hard earned along with the esk8 wheel SRB helped them develop for all of you They are people whos word is good on a handshake. When you ride a BRP wheel, it is the genuine article, not a copy of someone elses hard work.
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Lol, Jackson’s vendetta again. we should start a thread for it. poor guy. can’t get SRB out of his head. his opinions are getting less and less valuable.
correcting Jacksons misinformation. the mb153s shred in to cords in half a session. the old mb155s 1.5 -3 the BRPs last way longer. they are a better value.
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I’m free from caring anymore. Please everyone stop asking me my opinion. This industry is trash. The scene is all clout chasing. I have absolutely nothing to lose. I will say whatever I want, nothing your cult can do about it.
yes I’m saying I’m a clown
The “best equipment” is always winning but lets ignore that there is only one serious race team in the country and they all use that same equipment. Ignore that all the races are hosted by that team too. rolling starts anyone?
The sport has gotta start somewhere and Moe and the boys have definitely put in the hard yards. Not sure why there’s so much animosity towards that.
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Crazy right? These G300s are beasts.
You think better Vesc tuning could fix it?? That’s a really exciting prospect, I’ve never done more than basic motor detection. I wonder if it could solve the “drag braking” as well…Could you point me to where y’all were discussing it?
Can’t speak for the others, but I definitely want to do this before esk8con. I also want to post an official T race time, see where I’m at in the leaderboards
Yup! The only time I brake front traction is launching. The powerful front does a ton to help pull out of corners- I have a significantly tighter turning radius when I’m powering through a corner. When we set up a track with a hairpin, I can sometimes struggle to make the turn when I’m going slow, but gets way easier at race pace.
So excited to race you again esk8con dude. Fair warning, short track is my specialty
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I’m super excited to race against all of you guys on your crazy builds. It’s going to be epic!
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They’ve lasted me since early october, racing multiple times a week. For the torture that I put them through, I’m satisfied with how long they last. Ditto Moe’s reply. Not to mention their insane grip, there’s nothing even close.
For reference, I used to go through 8” Kendas ever 3~4 weeks. I have a stack of the 30 corded kendas in my bedroom(I posted a picture somewhere)
Other than the v5 frame, I designed and built my board independently from Moe. Also, (According to mboard’s podcast) the race at Esk8con 2024 is being run independently from Moe stooge.
esk8con 2024 is also doing standing starts. Let’s race dude. Would love to be wheel to wheel with ya.
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Redetecting using these settings solved my issues:
Yeahhhh do it, both are super fun. Trace is such a tight track but has definitely showed me the limitations of my board for short track.
Ok maybe I bump up the front as well and just learn to deal with it lol. At most though I’ll only be able to bump it up another 15A per side though.
Damn sounds like I need to really practice more lol.
Hell yeah! Can’t wait to meet and race everyone. Ugh it’s going to be nerve racking lol.
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