No worries, I’m sure we’ll figure out something. I’m still on your bandwagon! My backup plan was 60kv + TB110 wheels, but if 60kv is outright crap, hmm… I might have to find someone with a lathe to core out the 75kv madhubs for me. And maybe learn how to rewind motors…
With the upturned tail, I don’t think we can fit gear/belt drives inward, right? I despise outward motor mounts for daily users – makes it so hard to handle/carry/put-down.
I’m still all about your renders (and now reality WOW stunning), so I have time until you put up the deck+enclosure group buy
Hey did you get a chance to measure erpm/KV in esc tool? I forgot to do that.
Not unless you’re willing to use hella big risers or carve out the deck a ton. My friend is doing a belt drive with the motors above the deck but I can’t imagine a gear drive doing that unless it’s got miter gears
It’s gonna be a weird ass build, I’ll try to get him to make a thread for it. The motors and electronics are centered in a block above the rear truck
40" landyachtz battle axe (he stole my deck idea )
Drop mounted TB218
110mm clone TB V4 mounts with a TB 6374 and a FS 6374
Top tail mounted enclosure with a 10s2p 30Q and Unity
Last time I measured thr 60Kv motors they were 64Kv and 74Kv the 75Kv.
This evening I checked everything and run them sensorless since one motor gives problem. The torque was finally there but they still clogg at full speed. That’s a pity. So gonna swap to the 74Kv I used so far. Let’s see if it’s motor or wheel dependent. I have using the 75Kv for over 1000km and I love them so I know them very well. Of the wheels are a problem then 110mm wheels here I come
But this built is suppose to be AT since the 4iding feeling is amazing with the deck combo. I feel on a cloud. Luckily the new project is coming through Just in time. It’s a team work this time. I hope it turns out great.
Yeh I am sorry I didn’t think about modify the 75Kv for you as well. You don’t need a lathe. A drill press is plenty. I made an adapter to protect the motor phase wires while drilling. My is in steel for multiple drills but you can print it and should be fine for modify a set. I made a tutorial and some followed with success.
Concerning the belt drive I think motors must face outwards but you could add a guard to protect them. Place them underneath will require a tall riser I think. I am not a belt expert since I don’t like it
@deucesdown@Riako at the end was not the motor but one side of the unity that stopped to read the sensors. I notice too late but basically not matter which motor I use the right side is always sersorless and wrong read.
Change to the second unity and the detect worked perfectly on both. Do you guys know what to check in this case on the Unity or if there is someone repair long them in EU?
I tried 4 motors and 2 unities. I don’t know how I could notice before. Everything I connect to that side is sensorless and cloggs. Other ominiry perfect reading.
Just came back from 75Kv AT wheels. Nice nice ride. Totally enjoyable. Of course you loose torque but really still plenty. The main thing you loose is brakes, I am already using active braking but stop a such bigger wheels is a challenge for the motors. Before I could slide now I cannot block the wheels. Other things I think I was faster with the urathene. Didn’t turn on metr but I felt fast bit not crazy fast as before. Probably I was around 45kmh while before 55kmh was no problem and reached almost 60kmh sometimes. For the rest 5he deck is damn solid, the trucks a re pretty loose but I feel really locked in l and stable. I can make a U turn and change direction without step out from the board. That to understand how much I can carve. Need to ride more. But these the first thoughts. I really think you should get the 75Kv up and running.
I had the same problem that one side of the Unity won’t detect sensors anymore. A failing hall sensor board in the motor could have killed the Unity. I read from other people on other VESC’s that this can happening. @Dareno wasn’t it you with the original Focbox?
Troubleshoot the sensors of the motor before you try connecting them to a different ESC.
Do you get bad cogging on one side even if the other side is still running sensors? Guess what I’m asking is do you notice it? One of my builds runs on sensored and one unsensored and I have never noticed the cog on the unsensored side. Sensors to me have always seemed to be a bit of a waste of time considering they literally do nothing once the wheel is going in the direction of travel. The only time cogging is an issue for me is standing still on a hill but enough throttle and no cog at all.
The side with the bad sensor reading keeps also switching direction of the motor. Like you do the detection no sensored. Then you hand spin the motor by hand (unity set up step) and the motor spins in the wrong direction. You do a couple of time until you get it right at the certain point. Then try to ride it. Give speed and the motor cloggs at certain erpm or it decide that it goes backwards after yoybbrake
Is like that side can not be control as should be. I also connected the motor I have been using for the past months with no problem and it does the same.
Just in time. It’s a team work this time. I hope it turns out great.