That’s the thing, esc works fine on testing (at least the motors do) and the remote works (terribly tho) but only when I’m using unity tool
What version is the firmware?
Ooh, that’s a great question…how do I check?
I’m using default unity firmware on Vesc Tool, but when I tried using unity tool it said that the firmware seem to be old and that I need to update it
Do you think I should upload firmware through unity tool and then go back to best tool?
I would avoid using the Unity tool at all
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Oh, okay, I was just thinking that maybe they have the firmware which is more recent compared to VESC tool
By the way, here are the screenshots of my setup configuration, maybe the problem lies there and I just can’t see it
Need whole screenshots. The entire screen. The things I’m looking for are cut off the sides.
Your computer should have a way to do that without taking an actual photograph of it.
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Hah,you’re right,I’m guilty 
Alright, gimme a minute
Just in case you would need anything else - I’ll send it through in the morning,because it’s already 6am at my place
Thank you so much for trying to help me out once again) 
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-6A regen will give you close to zero brakes. Just a heads up. Check this thread out, same problem as yours.
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The first thing you need to do is plug in the USB wire and make a connection to the ESC. After that, check the firmware version and probably upload firmware. Before ever trying to spin motors.
HOWEVER, this 5.3 version you have is relatively new software and not tested much yet. I can’t recommend more highly that you use an older version that’s known to work, while you’re trying to solve problems.
Version 5.2 in VESC Tool or variESC Tool would work for this.
If you use variESC Tool then a lot of the defaults are safer.
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I’ve tried a bunch of stuff, and some of it worked, but apparently, it seems to be a bit more complicated
Firstly I checked out the @Algaliarept’s topic with a similar problem, and it appeared that my setting in “VESC Remote” → “Control type” was set to off instead of current. After changing that, the control started to work, but every time I’ve used it, the motor made a veeeeeery sus sound (I’ll attach it below)
So I’ve also decided to try changing the VESC Tool version to 5.2 as you’ve recommended, and it did solve a few issues - now I don’t have such an awful sound that I had when using remote, as well as the “99994” km trip has been reduced to 258 km (actually nevermind, after restarting remote and vesc number changed to 1950km). But anyway, now it works smoother.
However, something still goes wrong with the whole thing → if run for some time, one of the motors just stops, the speed on the remote doesn’t show up (but the amps in the right bottom corner do?), and as previously mentioned the trip count still seems to be acting weird.
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really? I actually feel like they’re super harsh for me and if I’ll try to stop relatively fast then I’ll just fly of the board
Don’t mind the mess, it’s hardly ever like this))
I believe I saw that BSS was the default setting in 5.3. Previously sensorless was the default. That would be why you hear these beeps when engaging throttle from standstill in 5.3 and not in 5.2.
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Idk, have you changed the other side of the esc to -6A too? If that’s the case, try riding it, brakes will be shit 
In any case, I think you’ve realized by now why most people think that the VX2 is a POS. If it doesn’t work out, get something better. The VX1 f.e. is very reliable, or something else entirely, like the hoyt puck or the trampa wand. Or you wait an uncertain amount of time and buy the OSSR remote, although that will set you back a cool 300 dollars.
as far as im concerned battery current max regen is not motor current brake and found by the formula: charge current per cell * cells in parallel, which in my case 6a x 2 = 12 and then since there’re 2 motors 12/2 = 6.
My motor current max brake is set to -52 A
Brakes will be ok at very slow speeds, but high speeds not so much. 
But then again, this is subjective, that’s why I suggested to try riding it.
If you drive your motors at close to battery voltage (high speed that is) there is not much conversion to make for your ESC, and that’s where you get only 6A motor brakes. Slower speeds are allowing for some conversion, so you’re maybe only driving your motors at 15V, so the brakes are actually close to 20A. Also free spins are kind of useless to determine anything.