I’ll check them out, thanks!
Addendum:
I found out that the motor cutoff temp is at 110C and I definitely hit that.
Today I was out again and I had brought my temperature measuring device, when I checked it said that the motors had a temperature difference of about 10C which is odd.
I thought maybe it was because the cooler motor had a looser belt which was slipping under heavy braking and the other one was quite tight.
Sounds kinda sensible.
Other than that I didn’t have cutoffs today because it was quite cool.
Otoh I’m losing range fast because of the cold 
Ok, so it’s getting warmer over here and I have long stretches of road I can just open the throttle on and let er rip.
I‘m getting these cutoffs again and it sucks.
As I am now sitting on a curb letting my momos cool, I noticed the right motor was much hotter to the touch than the left one?
Does anybody know why?
Check the bearings, it might be time to replace those. Do both motors freewheel smoothly?
Motor bearings are to be treated as a consumable, especially on belt drives.
I run 6396 maytechs myself and weigh similar to you. I’ve removed the big support bearing and mounted the motors on a set of finality GDs. Have not had any overheating issues unless it gets hot outside (+35c) since then.
The big bearing is likely to fail and cause additional friction. Gear drive adds additional support to the motor shaft and also acts as a big heatsink.
1 Like
I will check that, thanks.
So it looks like the big support bearing‘s fucked.
Luckily we‘re in for bad weather and cold so I’ll be in my garage, changing bearings and while I’m at it, get some proper steel motor pullies, alu sucks.
Some notes here that you might find helpful …
1 Like
Thanks, already found it.
Now I have a semi disassembled board on my work bench.
1 Like
Edit: I think my belts were too tight but all of this does not bode well for summer.
Ok, so new motor, steel pullies and new belts, continued riding and my motors are at 93 def C according to stormcore, I burn my fingers touching them.
What the hell, I don’t want to stop every 12 or so km and let the motors cool!
What in the hell
That makes no sense, how would the motors get that much hotter than the esc? Is it because of the giant heatsink plate in the enclosure?
I dunno. They are smolderingly hot, the esc is bored shitless it seems.
1 Like
I remember this all too well when I had the 190kv. Im using the 130kv on the supersport, i dont have a temperature reading, but i can rip around for over an hour with no issues, and the motors don’t fry my hand immediately upon touching like the 190kvs do
1 Like
That’s what I was starting to think, the 190s are just too brutal and get way too hot, I may switch to either 63100 or lower kv ones.
I’d have to change the motor configuration in the Vesc like acceleration and braking then, right?
I think you’re going to have more problems with 130kV, the 190kV has more copper fill and can support a higher continuous current rating. I think you’re better off with a different motor altogether (reacher / flipsky bh)
Sooo, after riding for a while and having the assistance of @janpom‘s excellent Davega to check on temperatures all is well.
My understanding is that the problems I had in the past were down to this one motor with the broken bearings and the belts were too tight.
I now have a new motor because I fucked up changing all four bearings in this one motor (don’t ask) and I have found a good belt tightness.
I can ride and ride and ride and so far I have only had the motors up to 86C, even in 26C weather.
All is well so far.
gonna ask because I have the big bearings on hand for replacement and was curious about buying the others and doing them all; but nervous enough about doing the big one with pullers.
Summer temps are here and my 130kv motors were cooking after a ride in 25°C+ days, too hot to hold for more than a second. I gauged the temps from a thermometer gun since i the temp sensors on the motor are disabled.
Got 62°C and 71°C on the can of the motor after a long hour ride of ripping it. there was a 5c difference on the shiny part of the motor vs on some 3M tape i stuck on there, so I guess the guns readings are pretty accurate, but could obviously be reading hotter on the inside.
1 Like
I got all of them out ok except for the bottom ones, there are two very thin small bearings stacked on top of another and removing them was very difficult, the outer race of the inner of the two bearings got stuck, the bearing exploded when trying to remove it.
I tried a lot of things to get that ring out but to no avail.
So I bought a new motor and haven’t looked back.
The broken motor is still somewhere in my shop, maybe I’ll get back to it someday.
Sooo, after a lot of riding and testing I have gotten rid of almost all temperature issues.
I found that good and clean bearings, not too tight belts and pumped up tires all help, most of the time the temperatures range from 74-87C, I sometimes get to 91C, that’s when the cutoff happens.
These numbers are all from the excellent Davega which has the ability to show motor temps next to the speed.
So I need to make breaks inbetween rides sometimes but it’s ok, the motors also cool when I’m riding slowly for a while.
3 Likes
From my experience and what I’ve seen from others, those motors have nasty temperature sensor noise. I’ve had some bad falls trying to troubleshoot it on a custom build. It creates a weird hesitation feeling and with enough current a full throttle cut. This doesn’t always happen, its bad on some of these motors and non existent on others. Its also apparent on some other motors like Reacher V4 and early Radium/Reachers before I learned how to fix it.
Its safest to unplug the temp sensor pin if you’re experiencing any weird throttle hesitations after the motors warm up
3 Likes
Yeah like I said, I only get it at an indicated 91C and that only happens when there’s a lot of hilly riding and the belts are too tight.
I recently visited friends and we did a 60km ride and nothing.
The motors were fine and never hotter than around 86C as an absolute maximum.
Maybe some day I’ll open up the enclosure again and then I can fiddle with the sensors.
1 Like