I was a beta tester for Matt and it worked perfectly if you want to read and be inspired. My favorite was the mode that threw color on the outside edge of your carve like you were riding a wave.
CarveSplash©
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Would love a write up just about this, though i know you’re working hard on the cybord tits hot and heavy.
is it buried in a thread somewhere and i just missed it maybe?
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I think i might be able to get my hands on one of these. I had built one into my tomiboi build and sold it with it. Part of it has failed (the breaks) and needs to be troubleshoot and he doesn’t use the lights and offered it back. I need to swap his gears to straight cut and maybe just set him up with a simple interface like this one so it’s a bit more user friendly.
I was so sad the ttl was getting abandoned when matt closed up shop. Forgot about the whole thing for a bit but i think he posted it all up open source so maybe it would be worth taking a look at it and seeing if i can spring board off his work. Loved the splash carve effect and it was all i ever used.
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I hit him up last year curious what he was up to. He makes really cool LED earrings so I bought my wife a pair and they were well received. Definitely a neat system.
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Looks like you’re using a beetle board? Tiny guy i like it. Any chance i could get your code and wiring diagram? Im so new at microcontrollers and have zero coding experience beyond high school so id be starting from less than zero. I’ve only unsuccessfully messed with some esp32 dev boards for pushing LEDs and wouldn’t know where to begin learning what i need to learn in order to do this from scratch 
Committing to 18s4p (edit: accidentally phone keyboarded 5p) , it means i need to modify the enclosure interior a bit to gain a couple mm of room so im forming a plan to route the bottom of the deck flat. The deck has basalt layers so im gonna try and not even dig that deep, literally just gonna flatten it off to remove the rounded projections form the concave
Used some foam to get a general idea of the shape of the stagger stack im gonna need and whipped out a couple cell holders. Ordered the additional cells needed. They will be batched from the same bulk order so im hoping they are in the same batch. If not ill distribute them among the p groups though i dont think they will be different - there are so few batches of rs50 cells right now and im ordering from @DIY500AMP.COM again for the last couple.
Its going to be so tight that ill need to route all my wires in the open channels of the stagger to keep it ultra compact and snip the bits of cell holders that protrude in order to have room for padding and insulation without increasing the enclosure depth.
Im starting to get that bright eyed feeling of fleshed out project goals that usually leads to frantic construction and late nights forgetting to stop working. Additional copper sheet and cells should be here Monday and I should be able to finish off the battery soon after.
Left to do list:
Receive and finish off new brackets
Make and install lighted tpu bumpers for nose and tail
Play with foot stop and or tomiboi foot hook and find preferred setup
Route deck bottom flat
Finish battery and finalize installation and layout of battery/bms/esc/5v buck
Design bracket mount charger port and power button
Finalize grip or frit design, pretty sure im going grip on this but was thinking maybe a graphic just not far enough along to start frit.
Skid plate design
Remove and paint hubs, brackets, motor mounts and possibly skid plates
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I kinda wish you didn’t slap a giant battery on thiss thing… keep it light, and fun.
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I might regret it later too, but I always grab the koi or sportster for light fun rides. Might disassemble my 12s3p p42a pack and make a compact flat 18s2p to compare head to head. Seems like fun and the 12s3p just sits as a spare at storage voltage for a couple years now. Actually ya, that’s going on the to do list. Would only take a little bit to swap it out if i do it right
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ITT: scope creep go brrrr 
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ok so v1 of the skid plate/ handle printed out of tolerance and came out kinda dog shit +1 so changed the scale up by 5% and it’s a little better
Kinda almost what i want but bolt holes still off and the angles are still not there. Going to do it again from scratch and make it less poop boring
Went to tacoma screw and got some high quality m5 taper taps, new brackets should be here Saturday andi opted for no powder coat. I want to fix the surface finish on them before painting them so they look a little more polished. Will be making another attempt to tap the 304 stainless and will spend a minute making a drilling jig so the accuracy of the drilled holes is a bit better.
Foot hook came in (thanks @tomiboi !!) and im trying to find the sweet spot. I think ill need to make some spacers to get it where i want and modify it a bit. I like the feel more than i like the aesthetic. Might add a little more padding. Need to add a rear wedge to keep my back foot more locked by geometry and then get grip figured out. In trying to lift the front my rear foot seems to want to plant on the rear bracket and i think a tuck wedge will make it stick where i want it
Cleaned up the old p42a pack that never got any use and will whip out a quick 18s2p candy bar and see what it do.
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Can you be extra extra and design the skid plate to allow the board to stand on its own?
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Freestanding board is always a worthy design goal
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V2 brackets showed up but i had to work all day Saturday and couldn’t do much more to than debur them a little.
Decided to make it 12s2p because i dont want to redo it all again when i re purpose this pack for the koi boi. It will give me a good comparison on the weight anyway, ill just keep the other performance in perspective. Didn’t make a balance harness from silicone wire like i usually do, @BenjaminF kinda talked me into giving them another chance… ill be judgy if they fail at the joint though
Digging through stock photos and i think im getting an idea. Angry pinup but probably sword and scales in bright reds and yellows then collage together black grip to look like cracked lava. It’s a start but not fully developed yet
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Surprised to see a rigid battery build, and nickel.
I was always afraid my rigid 10s2p was going to break a weld, and I had adhered 0.5mm G10 on top and bottom.
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It’s final home, the koi board, has zero flex and lots of room to pad well. Also only runns about 30a total and only occasionally hits 80 on takeoff. Because of the flat candy bar setup it doesn’t have a lot of cross section for the nickel so it is actually double layer .2 by 15mm - the two inner cells of each series have a second strip welded under the larger outer strip.
In testing the settings on the older used cells it punctured the negative trying to make copper stick and though I could have possibly turned it lower to get it to weld well i decided to be conservative with the power i put into them just to up the reliability. Tear off testing of the nickel and sandwiched nickel was very good.
The other reason for the very low profile design is to reduce the enclosure volume as much as possible. The koi boi refresh is going to try and reduce the size and weight and height as much as possible to make it even better as a last mile commuter while still keeping enough energy density to not worry about range when i get a long lunch break.
As a tantrum battery test small is just to reduce the battery weight and size as much as possible to feel the difference. This pack wont have the punch needed to ride it how i want but im looking for just the feel and cary ability with the way the front end feels as i wheelie. If its got the strength to lift the front end and get to the balance point ill be happy but i can tell a lot just by jumping the front end up without power. Should have about everything to finish this off today. Last of the supplies are set to arrive this afternoon
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Is that the Fuzzy Tesa tape I’ve only heard about and cant seem to find, on the 12AWG to XT90?
Does it actually stick to silicone jacketed wire or does it just stick to itself really well on short radius bends?
Your black hot glue, are you pressing it flat while still hot, or does it have that degree of self levelling on its own?
It looks to be a lot thinner than my black hot glue, or maybe my glue gun is not getting as hot. it certainly takes its sweet time getting hot enough.
No rush on replies, the build comes first.
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The fuzzy tessa sticks to it’s self more than it sticks to the silicone.
i use a bit of copper heat sink or 2000a bussing that’s about 1/4” thick in the freezer to press it flat. It’s only to make it a faster process as it will eventually cool the hot glue and pop free when room temp but if it’s cool to the touch it only takes a second. Really gets good adhesion when pressed and helps make it look nice imho. I do have a high temp glue gun but i run it on the low setting once it’s up to temp. If it’s on high it does flow really well but ends up being a lot to manage. I use it on high temp on enclosures and stuff to get better adhesion when i want it to flow into a weird spot but it takes a very long time to cool and can overheat in the gun if im not actively working it.
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Thank you. Ordering now.
Where would one prioritize the use of the Fuzzy 51608 vs the 51036 in Esk8?
I like the fuzzy stuff for wire management, i use the flat woven stuff on batteries and the cables there because it is neat and easier to remove and manipulate
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