Tantrum build: 210 dualities, tangent deck, 18s3p rs50, rs125s, d100s

Only snapped two taps and seven bits to get here, ugh i hate stainless. I did get to stand on it though. Not finished by a lot and ill break it down later. Feeling really good though

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Gaaaaahh, ok have to go to work but i could hyper focus on this build all day

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Hell yeah. Get it done by new years and you have my BOTY vote :oncoming_fist: love this build

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How long is the standing platform? Do you like the corner kicks being so pronounced?

I think i might soften the front toe and rear heal Just a smidge. It feels really good as is but not quite as walkable as i like. I move around a lot and like to have more foot placement options. Snagged a tomiboi foot hook to play with, i don’t want to soften up the kicks until i have a good feel to not get foot bite when im moving around

I might make a little wing from tpu to be able to braille my foot position. Finishing the gasket and

working on the battery for now

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Gonna be a crunch to boty this year, maybe. I want it riding by spring, maybe have it unrefined by boty but im gonna be hitting it as a work in progress if i do. :grin:

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Oh man, i really like the feel

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Hmmmmm ya, this’ll be fun

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Defanging process… and some inserts

Googone actually works so much better mixing it with sawdust ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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Ok this feels so good defanged, gonna work on a little foot stop to catch my front foot securely and make have it hook over a little so i can lift the front end and have a little lip or bump right on he rear to push my heal into when i lock in

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Eeeeeeeeh ok so i slapped an old 10s6p i have sitting around on it so i could play with it for a bit

70/-50 motor 50/-40 batt and its feeling nice and torquey my garage floor is like dusty polished concrete so the tire cherps are no as impressive as they feel. A little dry weather and ill test it out in the driveway but tearing it all back off to try some different foot stops

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Ok so I’m reaching a crossroads, i have a couple options and need to decide because as i move forward the battery build it will dictate my choices moving forward.

Option one - 16s 3p

Pros

  • more enclosure space in a smaller volume letting me increase ground clearance.

  • really nice alignment between standing height and hanger height

  • lighter, probably hit 28 lbs min from my guess and could knock another lb off if i remake the brackets in aluminum eventually

  • fast charging at 3p 16s and 15a and 1000w would easily do 20-80% in half an hour and at only 9a on a 120v circuit means i could possibly use more 120v charging locations without too much risk of tripping the circuit breaker as well as being able to get a lot of charge from less desirable charge spots in cafes and bars where amp draw is limited. small packs just charge faster. just barely within the voltage range of my big fast charger so i wouldn’t need to get a new charger.

Cons

  • less range, probably hit right around 16 miles of range. this would make this board a last mile only, couldn’t take it on most group rides and though it will be more transit friendly i wouldn’t have much of an option to get it anywhere without driving or transit.

  • tight build - battery and component arrangement would be very volume constrained. mostly just the vertical height of the battery but i have a few work arounds and methods to make it quite possible

  • would have to remake the brackets from how they are now, currently the board side holes are through bolted and the nut protruding into the enclosure would make a large amount of the volume un usable without redesigning a little and getting the holes tapped. i was really struggling to tap the 304 stainless even when i thinned the material to be tapped significantly to 4mm. also the reduced strength of the connection with fewer threads concerns me and i want to beat this board up not worry about over straining this connection point. i plan on taking this board off curbs and down stairs as well as just generally beating the shit out of it. i could upsize to m6 from m5 so the 4mm of thread would be a bit easier to get done as well as increasing the strength of the connection.

  • weaker, would have to up the amps a bit more to get the wattage i want which might push me out of the performance envelop of the 6455 motors. might loose efficiency because i would be running closer to the saturation point of the motors if i dont but not 100% sure this is actually an issue. might just be over thinking it. the wattage i could lay down in this smaller package at around 35mph top speed should feel torquey enough.

  • charger - it would be overkill and using the charger i have. likely i would want to get a dedicated 1000w adjustable charger so i don’t have to lug a huge rectifier around though i do have some 900w server psu i could modify thats smaller and lighter but not by much. the chargers in the wattage i want and are adjustable are kinda expensive if diy doesn’t work out. diy charger is a lot of work im not excited about

Option two - 18s3p

Pros

  • a little more range and torque vs the smallest option. just shy of 20 miles by my estimate. this range would make it so if i were to join small short group rides (16ish miles) i could bus/train from home without having to charge before hand.

  • only slightly heaver, middle ground weight is looking like its gonna hit the 30-32lb range, less if i eventually convert to aluminum brackets over steel but that’s long-term upgrade not something i would mess with at first.

  • smaller gasket (7-8mm) keeps my clearance good enough and the enclosure will only scrape on the hardest of slow turns and the kydex would hit some of the steep speed bumps but not in any way id worry about.

  • enough gasket that i could make it from clear tpu and put shiny lights in it - more fun for rainbows and visibility. i like led’s

  • little better torque at higher voltage with better headroom on the motor saturation point

  • 18s fast charging, i already have good fast charger and setup for this voltage. about the same as the 16s advantages and already have a charger that would let me charge at 1500w that is more portable.

  • chargers i have already are a little more compact than the ones for the 16s because they have less range of voltage and more features like app control for some nice qol improvements

Cons

  • still not quite enough range to not bring a charger on short rides. i really dont do half measures when it comes to rides, 20 miles is usually my cutoff for my ride just being utility and not taking it around for more than just transport. as in i would take it to the bus/train and make the last mile or lunch break ride but i would always look to take a smaller more efficient board or bigger longer range board. basically i would use it exactly like the option 1 16s build but have less range anxiety and be able to push it a little harder at the end of the charge/normal use case trip.

  • feels like a compromise that doesn’t give me enough of what i want. idk but i just like this option less than the lighter or heaver set

  • charging at higher wattage would require using ev charging stations BUT this is a soft CON - ev stations are more reliable and cheap and i wouldn’t be prevented from charging at lower wattage at a normal 110 outlet

Option three - 18s4p

Pros

  • range, would easily hit my target 25miles of range. 25miles is a significant advantage geographically for me - my house is about 5-8 miles from a lot of trails and routes that frequently ride that mainline to popular route starting points with charging points. It would let me do some of the rides without using a range extender top box

  • A smidge more room for led edge light bits and bobs. I think im going to try to get underglow on this with the edge lights and work out details to get break responsive lights.

  • Extra p cell will increase the avalible max fast charging current/wattage - 30% ish faster charging

Con

  • Increased weight, 3lbs ish from 18s3p. 12lbs for the biggest vs 9lbs or 8lbs respectively. 4lbs delta between largest and smallest.

  • Reduced clearance and the fix is smaller bracket offset. Reworking it is easy

  • It will need the deck lifted up a bit, 10mm. Tested it by arranging the drop through to bottom mount but my minimum offset is 17mm but feels ok - just not quite as good as being just a little lower.

  • Fills the space i was going to use for the bms… maybe. Might be able to tetris it under the esc if i eliminate the board side bracket nuts or rout a slight channel for the brackets… hmmmmmm

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Option 3.. the cons on option 3 seem less of a headache or workaround for you.

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18s4p would allow for more time actually riding, especially on some group rides or trails a little further out. I think that makes the extra work worth it

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Not having to ride bus or train…..

priceless

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This is how every single “light compact build” goes, in my experience :joy:

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I think this build is evolving into a thane build rather from the original compact/light weight build.

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Ya,I did say in the first post that i initially wanted lighter but my choice of trucks and mounts kinda dictated my build. Also part of all my “medium build” sweet spot philosophy questions. It’s such a hard target to hit well. Im trying :grin:

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Ok this shit is getting out of hand

ok so the plan is addressable ws2812b led strips and a ring on the loop front and back of 8 ish leds. Id like to figure out how @tuckjohn did break reactive lighting with vesc express and implement it on here to flash then do a full brightness red for break lights. Scope creep

Also added the butyl to the channel in the bottom of the tpu gasket to seal it up nicely

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Custom Arduino hardware/software to “translate” vesc/PWM data to WS2812B serial commands

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