Tackling the anti-spark problem (Title by a good friend)

any good?? the fat boy ones?

Read a bit about octane you will understand.
They seem to be reliable, but drain your battery

does anybody know size of r3 in the middle design, its a 1 ohm not sure how many watts?

I sold a few antisparks already in private and already made a few V2 that I even use on my eBike now. Just have been insanely busy and stressed over the last few months. If you want one, just write me an email to pryside.business@gmail.com and I’ll send you one.

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Flipsky is now selling a new version of their smart anti spark with current inrush limiting features utilizing a delay gate. I purchased it the minute it went live about 4 days ago. Includes roll to start and auto off. Looks like it could be the perfect switch.

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Fingers crossed on the QC roll.

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@Gamer43 Is this the switch you worked with them on?

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Yeah this is the real deal!!!
you might remember my face from the resistor nonsens on the 4.20 based ESC’s a few months ago. anyways I have been inside the facebook chat that @Gamer43 used to communicate with Flipsky regarding the development of the antispark for the past 3-4 months. And I can honestly say as long as there is not anything wanky going on regarding the QC or something else from the side of Flipsky this might as well be the beginning of an end to the ugly XT90S keys.

Basically the antispark is bulletproof when it comes to it’s design. ( I know, I know, but this is facts!!!)
There is a roll to start and auto turn off after 20 min.
The current consumption is super tiny 300 uA if I’m not mistaken
So in other words:
You can ditch the push button all together and just rely on the roll to start and auto turn off. so no more holes in the enclosure and failing pushbuttons. (should be as simple as tossing the button away)
The current consumption when the board is tuned off is so small that you won’t kill you battery unless you drain the board completely and then leave if for many months. ( and if you bypass your bms and you board until dry and then forget to turn it off for a few days you normally end up with a useless battery, the antispark prevents this. I have obviously never had this happen before…)

if there is enough interest I might post how a little something on how you can bypass your antispark switches in your current 4.20 plus modules. and either use a loopykey or a more robust antispark. I have had a little fire going on regarding their previous antisparks, fortunately I had a vacuum tight enclosure and deck made of carbon and high temp epoxy so I only ruined the esc and not my parents lovely garage.

Btw @gamer43 should have 100% of the creed for this and you should start a thread regarding this antispark because it is a pretty damn big deal, and not just another piece of crap!

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Oooo and it can do 280A continuous?! Yiss.

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150A* and that’s pushing it.

Inb4explosions

I say QC roll because cold solder joints have plagued Flipsky products since day one (an unfortunate side effect of their aggressive copper pours which allow for high power) and one of the prototypes had an issue where the LTC7004’s ground pad was not properly soldered.

Please exercise extreme caution, the design may be sound, but as much testing as we have put this thing through, there’s no telling what happens during the first production run.

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@Gamer43 thanks for the heads up, from what I was told by the Flipsky rep, I’m receiving a unit from their batch of preliminary samples, but they start mass production this week. I will post updates when I recieve it.

I havent opened a Shopsite yet but will do that soon. If you want to buy a Pre Chage Antispark from me just write me pryside.business@gmail.com

Price is 40€ incl. Shipping

It can easily handle 130A Peak (10 seconds) and around 60A constant

Its rated for 60V max (12S)

Have friends excessively test it already on eBoards and I have benchmarked it hard on my eBike with a 150A Battery Amps Controller and it works perfectly.

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who wants to pit some antisparks in a head to head test? :P.

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that´s a matter of taste and how you create your xt90s.
You can´t say that in general…
Would I say your antispark is fat and bulky and should start to drink slim fast twice a day instead of visiting Mc Dockdails??? …no…
I also wouldn´t say that there is an end for the xt90s era in sight. There still lot of applications in esk8 where the xt90s as it´s own or as loopkey is more convenient, cheap and reliable than any anti spark switch.

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What if you added in another mosfet?

you can make the mosfet bank longer but it doesnt really have any benefits for esk8ters or ebikers who use 10S+ systems with a total vehicle+rider weight of less then 120Kg since you dont need that much power anyway ever. On my 12S eBike I can easily push 6kW of power for a few seconds. With 6kW you can go 50Kmh on a 30% Hill incline.
These companys add tons of mosfets because they dont precharge and thus blow the mosfets if they would just use 2. Thats why they put on there 6 mosfets sometimes, to distribute the damage thats beeing done across more mosfets so it lasts a few more on-off cycles. :slight_smile:

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Very nice @Pryside what happens to the antispark sw in case of the regenerative braking ?

Unrelated question, its a toggle switch on your antispark right not a momentary?

So Flipsky told me that they tested the switch at 80A continuous current, and the temperature reached 60°C at ambient room temperature.

Take that number as you will.

At 10S, that is about 3KW, or 4.2HP.

@Gamer43 I’m curious, is flipsky making these for cheaper than you could have? Do you get a deserved piece of the action?