Switchblade 7 | Landyachts Switchblade | TB218 | 2x6374 7KW Total | 10s5p | dual fsesc 6.6 | 110mm Wheels

Hei esk8 community,

I am a first time builder with a background in engineering satelite thrusters for SpaceX and co, so i know a little about mechanical and electrical engineering and tried to implement that into the build aswell as the information given by this community. BIG THX to all of you.

For example i tried to build it with a savety of 2 in mind, meaning it is designed to withstand double than what it will be exposed to in real life. I planned and build my board from the ground up this summer and managed to finish it faster than I expected. it was a hell lot of fun to build it from scratch.

What I wanted to achieve was a very reliable daily driver and i got just that. Let me tell you IT IS AMAZING.

Where i live (Austria/EU) i have mostly steep hills, pebbles on the road ranging in size from big to huge and its always at least a 10-15km (6-9miles) trip to get somewhere. To be able to tackle those conditions and to not just fight through them i had to get something real. In addition to the circumstances of the roads i am also a heavy mofo weighting around 120kg (~280lbs).

To the build itself:

Deck: Landyachts Switchblade 38" (The board which i found to have the most reliable deckshape + fattolerance. i got to try it in a shop in vienna and the reviews werent lying about the stiff flex and good grip.)

Motor: Flipsky Motor 6374 190KV 3250W
( I had to round the KW up a bit to get the 7 in the name :). i know i am not getting the full 7KW)

Batterie: Electricskateboardsolutions 10s5p
(EU Vendor with the best Reviews)

ESC: Dual FSESC6.6 & AluminumHeatsink

(It is probably a little over the top, but i dont want to have any of those cutout nightmares or other problems that i read about on this forum. imo, the ESC is the most important part so it has to be respected accordingly.)

Remote: Flipsky 2.4Ghz Remote VX1

Since this is the only remote i ever had i cant say it is the best, but i can tell you what it does for me:

  1. No Battery%-Meter on the enclosure: looks better, makes it easier to waterproof and saves a few bucks.
  2. Long Range: when i tested it at low batterie, it cut off at about 15-20m (50-65ft).
  3. no programming needed and easy plug and play.
  4. 3 different acceleration settings. i only ever use the middle one at most because the highest is scary and apperently i am easier intimitated then i thought i would be. srsly some of you guys on this forum are crazy :crazy_face: )

For me it is the remote all those diy remotes try to be. highly recommended!

AntiSpark: Electricboardsolutions 180A AntiSpark Switch

Trucks: TORQUEBOARDS 218MM TRUCKS

Motor Mount1: TORQUEBOARDS FIXED DUAL MOTOR MOUNT SET

Motor Mount2: TORQUEBOARDS Dual 63mm Reverse Motor Mount Set

(I ordered the wrong mounts the first time, because there was no reverse mount option on the TB website for the V2 fixed mounts and I wasnt paying attention. cost me around 200€ and 3 weeks delay. ~10 days solely because i had to email TB about why the package hasnt shipped yet and they told me the color is not available and they wanted to try and email me anyways. Products from them are great as far as i can tell and maybe it was just a stuffed week for them so they couldnt get to write that email. no hard feelings here. just want to inform u guys.)

Motorpulley: STEEL MOTOR PULLEY 15Teeth

Wheelpulley: ALUMINUM KEGEL PULLEY 36Teeth

Belt: 325mm x 15mm Megadyne Isoran
(Belts + Bearings all from a local Business Supplier. Big tip if you cant wait for parts like myself. Businesses usually cant wait either :wink:. took less than a day to get them delivered for pickup.)

Wheels: TB110mm (very big, very comfortable and gives more ground clearance without struggling with redesigning/raisers)

Other things I got from Electricskateboardsolutions:
12s5p Enclosure, Enclosure Hardware, Velcro, Waterproofing D-Seal, Waterproofing Wiregommets(not used in final build because MotorSensorWire is not round and only fits if i take the wires out of the plug but them through and then replug which i did but ultimately decided to undo because it defeats the purpose. i want to be able to open up the box effordlessly and that way i cant pass the cables trough.)

This is still not completely finished but i think i will leave it like that for some time before i go back to improving. This is already a very capable machine which i have more trust in than in a regular longboard or even an ebike. It was and still is surprising to me how good of a transportation device this is. If you think about going for diy, I 100% do not regret building it.

Thing i still wanna improve are:

  1. Better Enclosure: Sadly Cometboards no longer sells 38" Switchblade enclosures and the 40" version is just flexing to much to get the eboardsperu enclosure that was in the making when i started the build. I know i could use a heatgun and reshape the ABS but i dont know how the results will look like. Thats why not all the screws are in, in the pictures above.

  2. Waterproofing between the MotorWires and the Enclosure: Wire Gommets didnt really work out and it was the most promising of the solutions i found. The 3 Phases for the motor work perfect with the gommets but not the Sensor wire. Currently the wires are just losely hangin, as you can see in the pictures above (I checked that the wires cant be caught by the motor/belt).

If you have any questions/comments/critique please let me know!!!

Thanks for reading my attempt at sharing my enthusiasm. Would be cool if you drop a comment.

PS.: This is a crosspost from the .builders forum. I hope the information reaches more people here.

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Man that looks awesome!

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These are great decks, curious to know what risers you used and if you can get wheel bite at full lean?

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First time builder in name only. Really smart choices and and a great outcome.

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I lived near Vienna for 6 months its so nice there to cruise around. Too bad I didnt have an esk8 yet back in that time. Love your build! what does the white writing on the deck mean btw? is it japanese?

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@onebluesummer Thank you for the kind words. I think that the enclosure that @eBoosted is making right now for the Landyachts Switchblade 38" will give it the gorgous look i am looking for. I will keep you guys updated!

@BigBen I used 6mm selfmade risers out of plywood i had laying around. I is surprisingly sturdy but looks really bad imho. I will maybe spraypaint them or switch/remove them.

I dont get wheelbite at all. Not even with my weight. The reason for that is i use 100A Bushings from amazon. They are the only ones i could find that are that hard. I choose them because of weight and the highspeeds. I once fell pretty hard at a street with perfect surface that leaned just a little downhill. It was with the switchblade out of the box. no motors, nothing. i gained speed so fast and couldnt break before falling from terrifying speedwoobles.

@BillGordon Thank you very much for the compliments. It is really cool to have such a highly respected community member and incredible builder i look up to saying such nice things. :heart_eyes:

@Creavenger The white writing is just a marking i did to know the orientation of the enclosure for making all the holes. I havnt gotten the time to remove it. as soon as the thing was assembled i jumped on it and rode it hard and i havnt stopped since :smiley: . Frankly, it kinda grew on me and now it just belongs there like every other thing in this amazing board.

Thanks for all your kind words and the guideance from this amazing community. Much love to all of you!

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I’m neither of those things, but I thank you anyway. :grinning:

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you are just being humble or i had a stroke XD

Well, someone will come along to refute the highly respected part ( @mmaner @dareno ) and I’m not a strong builder as of yet. I kind of snuck in the back door and hung around and here we are.

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This word is now part of my vocabulary. :laughing:

Good solid first build my brother. I have been eyeing up that switch 38 and @eBoosted enclosure because it is a thing of beauty and as for the build quality of the enclosure I can fully recommend Alans work. Lovely designs and the things are bullet proof. I would use the plate on the reverse mounts if I were you because it makes the whole drive train more solid. They are long motor plates and tend to flex under load.
Once you get used to the board then changing out the bushings to some riptide wfb will make a world of difference to the handling of those trucks.
I run 95.5a in the rear and 88a up front with the pivot cups designed for the torqueboards 218s. This stops the rear walking on you under acceleration while still allowing some decent carve ability (credit to @taz although that pains me to say lol)
Weighing in at 110kg and this combo is perfect for me.
I would also change the risers to urethane because vibration is the killer of all things esk8.

Again what a fantastic first build. (you should have seen my first effort lol)

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Now THAT is coming from an actual incredible builder, so you should be proud.

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Ayyy switchblade buddies! It’s a great platform. I’ve been having a ton of fun in mine

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@Dareno Happy i could extend your vocabulary. that actually came to my mind on the fly XD

i searched for tipps about bushings but only found little. this is exactly what i am looking for. The 100A i currently have make terrible sounds and make the whole board sound cheap and not trustworthy. I will try out your suggestion ASAP. Great advise. Thank you very much.

What plate for the reverse mounts? i heard about the bending issue thats why i was looking for a steel laserweldment (laser because Aluminium is not easy to weld) on the outside of it, all the way around so it wont bend at all but if there is an easier solution i am happy to know about it.

Switching the risers is already planned for the future. will probably happen at the same time i switch the enclosure. thanks for the heads up and thanks for the compliment on my build you guys make me blush :blush:

@BillGordon well, if you insist! I redirect the compliment to Dareno if that makes you more comfortable :smile:

@AnotherEndeavor AYYY! switchblade truly is the best!!! you my switchblade buddy now :crazy_face: Your board looks absolutely STUNNING! What are those belt enclosures? I think i see mostly the same parts as on my build if i am not mistaken? Best in slot everywhere!

Thats funny :rofl: yeah the markings look cool though you should keep it.

Yeah lots of similar parts. Flipsky 6.6 dual vesc and 6374 motors. Vx1 remote. TB trucks and 110s. The drives are 3dservisas fat boy nano gear drives. They have been pretty great but a bit more maintenance than belts. Other than that and the battery/enclosure our boards are very similar.

That pic was fresh after build complete. She doesn’t look nearly as clean anymore lol

Maybe I am seeing something thats not there but those mounts have what looks like the same mounting holes as the v5 fixed mount which has a plate that goes between the motor plates.

@torqueboards Hey Dexter is that a redesign of the reverse mounts or am I being a tool?

Check with the source is not a bad call.

@WayNz We haven’t yet had any issues with any motor mounts bending. All our mounts are still 7075-T6 aluminum. If you bend one, we’ll replace it.

The ones you have are our V6 motor mounts which are even thicker due to the support bracket holes.

We sell the support bar/bracket separately.

@Dareno V6, It’s no longer fixed position.

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Why is it not on the website then you lazy sod? That looks very nice and does it rock the 2 part clamp?

Send this lovely man the plate for his mounts to save him having to hack something using tubing and threaded rod with scooter axles. Oh wait, no that was me. Works a treat though.

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@Dareno - Haven’t posted it yet. Should soon. Not a 2PC Clamp but it’s a more precise 1PC Clamp.

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Looks nice. Personally speaking I have never had an issue with the 1 piece if assembled correctly. I will walk him through it if he has an issue. Cross plate is a definite necessity though and not for bending. Mine have had lots and lots of abuse and are still perfect. 3 sets. The long plates with powerful heavy motors do flex though and the addition of a cross member stops all those shenanigans and makes the whole thing a more solid drive when really hitting it off the line. Really improves the walking effect with both plates in perfect alignment.

Looks like I am going to have to buy some more of your stuff once the aud gets off the floor.

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