It was still in warranty so I just send in for reflash.
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This is probably the best scan I can get with my current scanner. Feel free to use it. I donāt have the time to make a proper dimensionally accurate CAD model right now. To many other projects.
sbx shell 2.obj (17.2 MB)
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Quick update for anyone. Summerboard support has been pretty responsive. They agreed to repair the broken remote. Iāll just have to send it back to them.
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Thought I would give yāall an update about my board. The loctite superglue held the shattered plastic together suprisingly perfectly. Iāve sketched up some parts of the original housing, but didnāt finish the model. Been busy with other things. Including exams, an interview, and getting started on the full rebuild of my main board.
But now Iāve got a new issueā¦ The board doesnāt charge. I thought its just unbalanced cells (because it didnāt charge when i plugged it in at 3/4 barsā¦) but I disassembled the battery and itās all balanced. So something must be up with the BMS. I thought I would just install a new BMSā¦ But upon further disassemblyā¦ Dang this V1 pack is built like shit. I have zero idea how those spot welds are still holding AT ALL.
You can barely even see them on the picture!
As there are some (supposedly) data lines between the battery and the BMS, can anyone confirm if I use a different BMS the ESC would still work? I would like to avoid having to buy new VESCs too right nowā¦ Poured way too much money into my main board recently.
Also, what does the on off button actually switch? Does the ESC have a built in antispark switch? Or do I need an XT90S if I connect the battery to the ESC?
Right now I am seriously considering just repurposing all those cells into a powerbank or something and then throwing in a 12S3P 40T pack into a peli knock off case. I have the cells for that pack anyways. But does the standard ESC work without their proprietary BMS?
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I only have basic knowledge when it comes to the electronics in esk8, Iām more of a hardware designer 
I have rerouted the powerbutton on my board and it is just a momentary push button that makes a short to power the esc on.
Iāve seen people hook up Lipo packs directly on the summerboard ESC using the four pins that plug into the stock battery. Iām betting you might be able to build your own battery with BMS and use the stock summerboard ESC. But Iām no expert.
I have my own DIY kit with a 12S2P molicel, BMS and stormcore. It works perfect! If your going for a full DIY kit I can give you some tips. Good luck!
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As there are some (supposedly) data lines between the battery and the BMS
I assume you mean between the ESC and the BMS? If you look between the battery terminals there are 4x smaller pin connectors. These are for the power button, UART TX, UART RX and GND.
can anyone confirm if I use a different BMS the ESC would still work?
The communication between the ESC & BMS is non-standard and so you wonāt be able to buy an off-the-shelf BMS and pair with the SBX motherboard. I received an older source drop from SB, since itās a derivative of the GPL VESC code, but itās probably not something that will help you much here.
Itās unfortunately a well known issue of the SB BMS going into protection lock-out and at the moment the only fix is to send the BMS back to SB for re-flashing.
I called out Summerboard on this defect and I believe it can be fixed with a FW update, but it doesnāt seem like theyāre interested in investing resources and would rather upsell V2 HW.
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Thats looking clean! I am actually a bit unsure about what to do for the battery situation right now. Getting a new ESC is fairly expensive, so I would like to avoid that route for now at least. But fitting the old ESC into a pelican case is simply just not an option, as itās so long.
I think for now I will just rebuild the battery pack with the stock cells. I donāt trust the welds so itās quite a lot of work though for a still shitty outcome. And Iāll try my luck with a random BMS I have on hand.
I would love to eventually put in a dual vesc with a decent battery like you have on there, but money is quite tight at the moment.
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The board shop I work at stopped selling them for a reason.
Super happy to repair these boards, but not sell new ones given average customer experiences previously.
Maybe all these V2 Generation SBX electronics will make it into a new board like a SB3ā¦60
SB brand name needs a leiftech esque tuneup. Not sure just a V2 SBX is getting that done for them.
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The reason to not go with 21700 cells being they would not fit in the stock battery box? Plus not being able to fit the stock esc into a pelican case.
I feel like you could have the esc in the deck still have have the top box be only battery.
Yeah sorry thatās what I meant.
Thatās what I thought too. But the real question is whether that communication is mandatory for the ESC to function. Or itās just to display individual cell voltages from the app or whatever they use data connections for
Yeah I heard V1 hardware is unreliable. I expected things to go wrong eventually. Unfortunately for me though, sending the BMS back is not an option, as Iām from the EU. Two way shipping would be so expensive, that I could probably buy a cheap VESC for that price, which would also solve my problems
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If someone is in search of replacement deck, Iāve got one in storage.
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I didnāt check if 21700 fits in the stock battery box, there might actually be enough space.
But I have a 12S3P 40T pack thats welded up but not finished off completely, I am not going to rebuild it into a 2P pack. And I donāt have any other loose cells at the moment. I wanna keep the costs down for now, so not buying new cells either
So its probably a rebuild with the stock cells for now
Hmm, thatās an interesting idea. Iāll see if itās possible somehow tomorrow
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But the real question is whether that communication is mandatory for the ESC to function. Or itās just to display individual cell voltages from the app or whatever they use data connections for
The stock ESC will work fine without the BMS communication.
If you supply the ESC with a 12S LiPo, itāll run and youāll be able to ride it.
Youād be on your on regards to charging/balancing/safety/etc, of course.
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Thanks, thatās perfect! Iāll just rebuild the pack with the old cells and a new BMS for now.
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Iām putting back together my SB-XL and gonna try out a pair of reacher 6365 motors on it. Does anyone have a idea how many amps a SBX slipring can take? Iām guesing 60 amp per side (with clean brushes). ???
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I think itās very dependent on how tight the brush PCB spring compression is, if the beryllium copper springs tuned high compression I think the current capabilities are beyond enough. However the design of the Sr360 makes the slop in the pivot bearing slowly compress the springs, it does slow down to the point where prolonged function without maintenance is possible but I donāt think the Amp flow would be too amazing once they get to that nearly free spinning level.
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Good points to consider! Thanx!
I take good care of my boards in general with cleaning and tuning so it should be good. Iāll also measure/check the sliprings cables AWG and look up what amps they can take. 