Summerboard SBX reviews, discussion, mods, deals, problems, mostly problems. Maintenance/upgrade guides.

yeah just try to show whatever is not shown well in these pics.



That’s a disaster. There are unsecured wires everywhere. :scream:

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I feel like it could be safe if the balance wiring was on a flexible PCB and all nickel/cables had proper strain relief and isolation.

That is how I would try to fix up a sbx batteries on a mass scale.

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Do you have any photos of the balancing wire “harness” or routing that they use now? I scrolled up and didn’t see any but maybe I’m not understanding how they run those wires.

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I not not tried crazy hard but nobody has done a proper teardown of a SBX battery and taken good pictures. @Lee_Wright

Someone had a battery that got water in it and shorted out that they were going to tear down and send me, I don’t expect them to do it.

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someone sent me this they got in a box of parts from LV Shredquarters

Took a while to find any pic showing the part it screws onto, looking at it now the funny triangular bolt pattern makes sense because if the upper part cracks there are screws holding the pivot and sr360 mount separately.


the ground down edge is because it hits the ring under vibration.

Should be possible to replace that part in the center with one that would allow the use of Freebord 5 castor bases.
Right now what I can do is finish the rough model then work on a design of the same part but it fits the leiftech wheel/motor mounts as well as the SBX ones. Then that part could be sold to someone with a V2 to let them use SBX wheels and later if they switch motor/mounts then use SBX mounts or aftermarket mounts that fit the bracket without total disassembly.


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@Battery_Mooch is this advice sounding right in general?

These SBX batteries, seem to need to be diagnosed using different steps from normal. As the actual problem could very easily be in the Mobo or otherwise unrelated to normal battery degradation.

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I don’t know how those packs are set up and controlled but a slow discharge to the cutoff voltage, at known constant discharge current level, is how I would typically test pack health. By timing the discharge you can easily calculate the delivered capacity and compare that to its rating.

Monitoring cell voltages can be good to do too but not needed if the pack is delivering the expected capacity.

If the motherboard is restarting/rebooting then it could be anything. But my money is on this not being pack related as long as all the pack connections are good.

Random restarts are often a loose connection somewhere, cracked solder joint, failing component (might be temp sensitive, only failing when hot)…physical stuff like that versus a failing cell or cells in the packs.

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I was trying to give them advice for how to check using basically no equipment besides the charger/the board to discharge. Only advanced tool they would have is a multimeter and then would be able to look at the whole pack voltage (split 6S2P see above) by comparing the voltage of each half they would be able to see something might be off in one of them. Or to be more accurate to this situation seeing both packs are equal voltage should indicate there is not a problem in either.

Definitely think a failing cell would not lead to restarts as it would not power back on, only bad range.

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Good idea and worth checking.

Agreed.

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The info I am missing is if the SBX motherboard needs a key of any kind from the battery to work. Some how this info has eluded me…

As far I know the battery side needs a special magnet post from the Mobo to turn on power but from there if the ESC works regardless of BMS signals is unknown.

@Lee_Wright do you have a SBX mobo to try giving power?


I doubt that the BMS would be limiting the voltage to 0.08V but possible I suppose, not likely given the other side.

I wonder if/how many times this has happened and people just sent them back and paid for new cells or something.

I have several bits and bobs and I keep meaning to take pictures for you. I’ll say this, the battery setup is complicated and not worth getting involved with. The balance plugs are tiny and the chances to short them whilst checking voltages is very high for a layman.

There is a hall sensor that detects if the battery is connected to the board and there is IC2 info passed between the BMS and ESC’s.

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I got these so if this still leaves something unclear for whoever then you could try helping to get any more missing info.


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You basically got it all there.

The sensor with the tape and tie wrap around it is the hall sensor.

The small circuit board is the optical isolator board they have had so many issues with.

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Does this chip say “bq76940” on it?

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Wait…opto-isolators?
There’s only one power source though, the pack. They can’t isolate circuits that share a common ground. Or is that why they have had so many issues? :thinking:

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I think it is. I think the electronics aren’t the best design and it’s caused them loads of issues

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A half-decent beta-test program would have caught that though.
yea, my usual rant, but it just pisses me off that this is ignored by so many manufacturers. The price they have to pay for that is so high…smh

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