A little late to the game here, is there a guide for how to diagnose SBX battery pack problems? board turns off randomly every few yards and SBX batteries are sold out right now 
Tried leaving on charger for 24 hours in case there’s a dead cell but no luck.
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From what I heard some of the boards had “killer motherboards” that would drain one side pack or something. Or wait no that was a battery side issue the killer mobo fried some chips on the BMS.
Basically the easiest thing is grab some diy esk8 parts and start converting to a reliable and serviceable electrical system.
bolt size
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Here’s a photo dump of the lighting mods I made recently. I fit the TelTail Lighting module into the housing for the front caster and broutght the cables out under the gasket. It gives it a nice clean finish that makes it look like the lights came built into the board. It does break the seal of the gasket but I never plan to ride this through water anyways so its not a big to for me.
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Did you see anywhere on that motherboard to hack in a UART?
It seems the motherboard basically contains two, mirrored, VESC like circuits with some components left unpopulated on the second circuit. Because of that I assume the pads here are for a second bluetooth module and two of them are routed to the second micro as UART rx/tx. Youd have to probe the populated bluetooth module to find which pins are rx/tx but I think its possible.
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yayyy someone smart finally figured that bit out!!!
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All the smart people just binned the stock electronics 
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Have you seen there was an updated version of that Plastic caster base/slipring case part?
Not sure if it has the same mold or much changed at all.
You did not show but did you just jack into the charging wiring? just daisy off the charge port.
I havent seen that new version of that part. Do have any link to pictures so I can see if I have the latest or not?
Its shown in one of the pictures above, but not very clearly. I just soldered the TTL power leads to the positive and negative of the battery port which is exactly the same as connecting to the charge port positive and negative. Because of how the summerboard switches the power to the ESC, I had to modify the TTL FW a little to delay it’s bootup so that it draws as little current as possible for the first couple seconds.
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new plastic base no more bearing cracking it flaw.
https://vimeo.com/698808893/bd19699899?fbclid=IwAR3Jxl-HuPryPYd7XecHrYygjM954nxacqrZFg6PWoseI0HlGP6p5-UhkQE
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Don’t want to keep diagnosis going in someones build thread. Was relevant but this is sbx reverse engineering.
if there was a bad component then I think something would heat up although I’m no expert. My only thought was there seems to be a MOSFET near the input that was not allowing input, but why not open circuit.
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Person found this on first service.
I asked if this blob was from the motor wires soldered on the other side or what.
Also note the seemingly permanently installed bearing.
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I’ve got a brand new battery but my board won’t power on & when it’s plugged in the charger light turns off. Planning to check the resistance on the power switch wires and charging port tonight. Has anyone else had this issue? Input appreciated
Bad electronics issues.
How much do you want to keep it stock?
Sorry hope someone shows an easy fix.
For now, I just want to get it up and running without having to spend a bunch of money. Eventually, once I get used to riding I’ll care more about upgrades & reliability over keeping it stock
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