Oh no not quite, I mean four for each enclosure segment, as in two on front and two on back
So 4 for each segment, but so that they aren’t hold on two segments at once, 16 screws total
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I might go with your plan or your plan modded (if not enough room length wise), but I might first test if mine is strong enough. I’m learning towards yours because most enclosures like for a 12s8p use 16 screws. Mine is twice the weight roughly so I guess that wont be enough. Or could I just make the flaps twice as thick and use m6 instead of m5? Im hesitant to put a lot of holes close together. I don’t even want to drill into my deck at all lol
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current plan for all accessories and electronics: going to open up ubox uni1 remote and 3d print a bigger one to fit the remote for the relay.
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Check out Seb’s esk8 LED controller, its open source and easy to build it uses 3 x ws8218b LED strips.
I has a build in accelerometer for Carving and Braking changes.
https://github.com/sebdelsol/esk8-ledstrip
Seb has done a lot of work and even done a phone app to control it.
I have built one and using it in an upcoming build
It may give you some ideas…
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Which arc reactor do you want to see? I will use the simplistic version as the guide to make cut-outs of the grip tape for the light panel underneath to show.
arc reactor design
- 1
- 2
- 3
- 4
0 voters
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I think @MarkOneBoards moved first on #4 (and #3 & #2?)
…but since they turned their back on esk8 in favour of EUC’s, maybe it deserves a new home.
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I didnt know about this! Cool! I hate how some off them are cut-off and not centered lol
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My plan modded is actually more along the lines of what I was thinking. Personally, I’d rather see something like that with slightly more small screws than a more risky design with less larger screws.
The less you have to take out of the deck in volume, the better.
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Thoughts? black lines vs grey lines? red? yellow sections? more sections? Im thinking a mix of straight lines that follow the deck holes and contours that follow deck curves. theres sections where the feet go and then at the ends where the board curves up and around the arc reactor. Ignore the poor drawing and colours that are inaccurate. I’m sure it will look better with gold and proper lines. Will remake in fusion if you like it
Vs
also im thinking the vinyl on the bottom will have the two blue photon beams under the feet! (that are at the palms in the suit that he uses to fly - because ill be flying with the board 
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The enclosure dimensions will fit on the board, 12s16p here I come! I have a challenge: the curvature. I will be printing a gasket in tpu but I think this is too much curvature. I wish I had the model of the deck then I could easily cut my boxes so the bottoms conform to the deck
Take a photo of the deck from the top and from the side, make sure that the angle wihile taking a photo is as close to 90 degrees, measure length, width and thickness of the deck at the middle and I’ll make u a model in a second.
But PLEASE measure it in metric (cm,mm) because I have no idea what inches, feet, foot or 1/64 something mean.
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Man you’ll have 3 sheets of printer paper clearance on that deck once you step on it.
Please reconsider both the idea of having 3dprinted plastic hold the biggest fire hazard in this hobby and how much battery you can actually fit under that deck
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I think he will top mount the battery? Or did I misunderstood that?
Edit. Sorry. My mistake. You are correct.
+1 to all you said it your last post.
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I swear every spring there’s a wave of new diy guys that still think they got that one secret trick up their sleeve above anyone else and will save a lot of money. I was there once too but, wow.
He will spend on printer filament alone half of what a @BigBen haero bro deck enclosure costs, before anything breaks and he’ll have to print alone.
Bigben, save this guy please.
Also, if you want the best deck skinning you’ll ever see, check out Sender’s creations. Ain’t cheap though
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I cant wait to see the final product I love me some Iron man. I hope if you do another comic themed build you make a Lobo deck.
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I just came here to say that a 16p battery will take ages to charge; if you already have a 16s capable ESC, then go 16s12p. Just limit RPM in software so that the motor doesn’t experience more than 13s voltage and you should be good. Faster charging time ftw
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People use a double stack enc with 7inch wheels. Ill be doing a triple stack with 9 inch wheels. It should have the same clearance. If not, adding a 1/2inch riser will give it the same clearance as if it were a double stack so I will have the same clearance as other people. I am going to trust my 3d printing. I’ve seen enough 3d printed enclosure and I have enough 3d printing experience. I know my materials and the batteries. I will be maxing 6A per cell which will keep it under 50 celsius according to tests. My material will not weaken till 70. If I have any issues I will reprint in no warp ABS which is a little more pricey. I usually print with ABS but theres a tiny bit of warp so I’m going with petg for this. I have experience 3d printing for esk8s.
I talked with Bigben already, if I remember, he only has a single stack. Eboosted is making a DS soon that will only fit a 12s8p, half of what I want, I can also use his Kaly DS as some have - that will cost $200 inclusive. Printing the 4 full boxes will cost me $20 of filament. Lets say $30 with prototyping.
Thanks! I don’t know Lobo but I don’t see myself doing another build. This will meet all my needs and I wont need another board.