🏁 SRB Esc Approach 🏁

Learned today that the Xlx are discontinued after the release of the xlx2. That’s kind of sad as they were working pretty good and the xlx2 is a considerable lager form factor.

Edit: nah not much bigger. Just the height I would have liked not being so high :slight_smile:

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Another issue that needs to be addressed is the motor wires vibrating out of the XLX2. @MoeStooge have you fashioned a fix for that?

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Are they working well now? I recall @MoeStooge having some trouble with them.

Still has a firmware issue. Working with Castle on it.

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Has this been solved yet?

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I have only seen that esc (the old one) ran with the matching castle 800kv motors on 5th scale r/c. and i thought they were slow p.o.s.
thats soo crazy to see these pushing an eskate so hard!

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New Delta firmware is up and available.

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Does it work?

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That is an important question

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Delta fix part seems ok. The off coast throttle engagement braking is the issue I am having with the XLX2

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I thought those two were related, my mistake

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I guess they’re heading in the right direction.

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@MoeStooge is the xlx2 a viable option over the original now? they are harder to come by now since it has been discontinued

@Gilbert Xlx2 is a good esc with a bug that still needs addressed. There is an undesirable β€œdrag brake” effect when re engaging throttle after coasting in neutral. Castle has been informed on this and assures me their engineering dept has been notified. @fessyfoo raced this esc at Apple Valley and can elaborate on his experience with it.
As to date we still have ZERO esc failures using the Castle Xlx and Xlx2.

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Torch bro. I’m not kidding btw, dead serious. Small pencil torch is enough for β€œsmaller” stuff like 6awg, you should watch videos of guys rewinding large induction motors, fifty-to-a-few-hundred HP ones as large as a person. They break out the oxy torch and large cutting heads to heat the wire bundles.

It’s really a lot better though, once you get to the point you’ve got to be on the wire any significant amount of time with an iron, it’s actually very inefficient and not optimal for the conductor, as the copper is sucking heat out of the end almost as fast as you put it in. Appropriately sized torch and proper cone adjustment and you can solder larger wires as fast as small ones using the iron. Just takes a little practice.

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I noticed and adapted pretty easily to the drag brake. it wasn’t much braking. In racing I’m trying to be throttle on or brakes on anyhow, and I drive my EV cars in regen/drag brake mode as well, so… it wasn’t too annoying. I should say it wasn’t annoying at all.

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Sounds viable then! and it’s true, going fast 101 is by only being on brakes or accelerating and never in between

omg i love this thread and this forum in general
i think my next build will be a raceboard im adddicted :slight_smile:

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Is it specific to e sk8?

With cars and go karts you can dial your driving by either having higher entry speed, higher mid speed or higher exit speed in corners, and higher mid speed for example will call for some balance of your car weight & acceleration and minimal braking instead of hammering it (you then also need to get sometimes light on acceleration to be able to apply minimal braking)

I assumed it would be the same for skate racing :checkered_flag:

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Dont these RC esc’s have extremely unenjoyable braking profiles? Never tried them so I dont know for certain.