If it’s an ebike, leave “Duty Cycle Current Limit Start” at 100%
If it’s a balance vehicle with a single wheel, leave that at 100%
If it’s an esk8 though it needs to be 90%
You said it’s an ebike so leaving “Duty Cycle Current Limit Start” at 100% is totally fine.
Other folks might be reading this while troubleshooting, that’s why I added extra information. Leaving that at 100% on an esk8 can be very dangerous.
Those are pretty aggressive cutoffs for 16S, if you want your battery to last longer, consider raising those slightly
Naturally the motors are cinese, and the spec aren t present…
But they are 30 poles, with 3 kW of peack Power.
Ok, i understand…
Instead of “Battery Max” at 84A and “Motor Max” at 55.29A, try switching those around. Put “Battery Max” at 45A and “Motor Max” at 90A. That’s probably going to solve your problem.
Really???could you tell me why? I m curious
He already had them setup to 95A before. It’s not this.
@Tailele i think the kv of the motor is a bit too high. Are you able to reach top speed in any circumstance?
Also, again, i would like to see the next tab down to understand a bit better what is going on.
It looks like this
Are you using uni1 remote with it ? If so you have 3 settings on this remote L M H try change them.
It looks like he’s using ADC mode and not a remote at all.
Yes i use hand throttle…
I ll try soon
Cut off your motor temp sensors
And then burn them so they can feel the irony!
Sorry, there isn t…in any case i change the parameters, 85 Amps motor and 40 battery, the situation Is the same. I think that Is the vesc, probably works for skate and so the torque in the First step Is more delicate.
I would repair the Two flipsky…i think that the arm Is fault un both and in One a micro too…
These work fine in ebikes as well. Folks use them all the time.
If your MCU is >150°C then your hardware is trashed and needs repair. There is absolutely no normal operating circumstances where the MCU has those kind of temperatures.
It depends on the component.
In your case, that large hot component is where the firmware lives, so yes, you will definitely have to program the replacement.
And Is there a procedure in vesc tool to reflash the firmware in a blank ECU?
I think you can either use one VESC to flash another VESC, or use an ST-Link. You won’t be able to connect to it via USB.
