Spintend ubox...poor torque

Really???could you tell me why? I m curious

He already had them setup to 95A before. It’s not this.
@Tailele i think the kv of the motor is a bit too high. Are you able to reach top speed in any circumstance?
Also, again, i would like to see the next tab down to understand a bit better what is going on.
It looks like this

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Are you using uni1 remote with it ? If so you have 3 settings on this remote L M H try change them.

It looks like he’s using ADC mode and not a remote at all.

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Yes i use hand throttle…

I ll try soon

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Cut off your motor temp sensors

And then burn them so they can feel the irony!

Sorry, there isn t…in any case i change the parameters, 85 Amps motor and 40 battery, the situation Is the same. I think that Is the vesc, probably works for skate and so the torque in the First step Is more delicate.

I would repair the Two flipsky…i think that the arm Is fault un both and in One a micro too…

In your opinion if i change the components Is necessary to program the firmware?

These work fine in ebikes as well. Folks use them all the time.

If your MCU is >150°C then your hardware is trashed and needs repair. There is absolutely no normal operating circumstances where the MCU has those kind of temperatures.

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It depends on the component.
In your case, that large hot component is where the firmware lives, so yes, you will definitely have to program the replacement.

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And Is there a procedure in vesc tool to reflash the firmware in a blank ECU?

I think you can either use one VESC to flash another VESC, or use an ST-Link. You won’t be able to connect to it via USB.

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I would love a semi technical explanation of what is the “duty cycle current limit” if possible.
Edit: I’m reading this post and somewhat understanding it Battery Amps, Motor Amps and Duty Cycle... Please Explain - #23 by professor_shartsis
But I don’t see the correlation between sk8 and 90% duty cicle
Edit 2: I think I can answer myself, hitting more than around 90% duty cycle can cause a drop in battery current, which will change the torque and that change of torque may catch you offguard and throw you off the board. Is that it?

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Discussed a bit more here:

When your duty cycle hits that number, it will start limiting the current. For example, if you have it set to 85%, I’d expect my amps/duty cycle relationship to look like this:

Where amps feels like speed. So once I hit 85% duty cycle, my top end acceleration isn’t as touchy or responsive while approaching full throttle.

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That’s it. Need smooth changes around top speed, not jerks and jolts. Those might work fine for bikes and stuff, but not for esk8.

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People please DO NOT recommend setting you are not sure about!!!

  • Duty Cycle NEVER 100%! It can and will eventually blow up controller’s output fets! 95% is max safe on Vesc UBOX

Second of all I didn’t read full thread may be it was said and fixed already since it is old, but Motor Current should be higher than battery current. Motor current should be as high as motors can handle. typically any motor above 1000w nominal can take 100amp. above 1200w can take 125amps

  • UBOX is rated 100a per ch, but it can do up to 125-130amps without issues. Above that value you will get noise from output fets messing with logic board, which can cause anything from sudden should down to MCU burning out!

BATTERY current simply controls how much Watts is available on input, because output can not exceed thee input power - as RPM grow = motor voltage grows from 0v to max voltage

  • this means when you travel 5kmh and give full throttle, voltage on motor will be 5v, thus Full Motor current 125amps can be utilised = 625w only = all ok
  • when you travel 30kmh your motor will have now higher voltage, 35v for example, 35v*125amp motor current = 4375w (if your input is set to 40amps and battery level is 58.5v, than you have only 2340w available on input! The only variable controller can adjust is output current! So it will lower motor current to the level where it doesnt exceed 2340w available)

PS: if you increase battery current to 60amps, this will translate to the Full Motor Current being available up until higher RPM (Speed)
PS2: Motor current is what heats up motor, but battery current sort of controls how long motor will be getting that MAX Motor current. that is how they relate to each other and motor heat.

hope it helps.

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85 amps on motor is about ok for 450-500w motor being slightly warm. you have 2pcs of 3kw motors - I guess this is max value, so like 1500w each nominal

you can max VESC out - ubox

  • set motor current 130amps
  • set battery current what ever your battery can handle, but not above 100amps each channel (make sure your wires and connectors are able to handle that current! there very few connectors that can do 200a)
  • set Absolute current to 180a and not above! you are likely to get an error about excessive current though if both motors will be set 130/100

UBOX is very very small and super efficient but it is not meant to handle above 200amps current in total on phases or on battery - HW allows (130 phase wise, even 150 if you shield and do some mods), but software will need to be re assembled to allow above 180 amps Absolute

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