Yep, just use the included XT90S connector for your battery input and you’ll be all set.
Im not sure if here is the place to ask but then how would i wire a battery voltage indicator on the board as i dont think i can charger with the remote and board on to check how much the battery is charged?
yes, you can use an external anti-spark switch to replace our current swtich. and if you want it to be “always on”, you can chagne the switch type to latching type botton, and if you have remote Uni1, you can set to change swtich button type.
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Higlight!!! All shipped Ubox have antispark function and switch button for powering on / off!
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Just ignore previous explanation, only rememer this , very simple: Ubox have antispark function and switch button for powering on / off. again!
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Wait so it wasn’t removed after all?
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Just change the antispark function by loopkey XT90S, it still has antispark function.
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Hey goood to see you! Always nice to see new faces joining the hobby. The reason why people wanted the antispark removed is because there are not even a handful of reliable antispark switches on the market. And if/when the antispark fails it usually fails open circuit, but sometimes it brings down the esc as well. I for one have gone through 6 or 7 antisparks over the years. You will realise in some time that reliability is key, and using something that will fail is just not worth it.
Use a xt90s loop key if you want it stupid and simple. But it’s not the most beautiful thing in the world. Or get a external antispark, @Gamer43 designs has the best track record. Flipsky sells a very early version of his designs and there are some later prototypes floating around on this forum.
Battery level can be monitored in maybe different ways, through a Bluetooth module, some UART remotes got the boards battery levels built in, you can use a external fabricated voltmeter. Search around on this forum you will find something you like.
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Oops please delete
This brings up a good question, I though most antisparks will fail closed? @hardunclejohn what is the case with the Ubox? if the antispark fails will it fail open or closed? also what are the chances of it failing while in use? I’ve always though these fail most of the time on start up.
i have had a bit of everything happen, open loop, closed, fire and smoke. Im not qualified to talk about it, but that is the failure modes I have had on a wide array hardware. but bottom line is that im not interested in using something that isn’t designed properly. and I think very few newcomers really understands/values that, me included obviously. 
This happened nearly two years ago because of a antispark blowing up. Luckily only the antispark and esc burnt to crisps.
Pretty sure the butyl tape and the composite deck and enclosure combo suffocated the fire.
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That looks intense… is that a flipsky?
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well it used to be.
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I bought a voltmeter but do I need to get a seperate switch so that the light is only on while charging or something because I don’t think I can charge with the vesc on
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So what Spintend mean is they removed the spark suppression circuit, that is when you plug a battery into a load and it doesnt spark. This isnt switching the device on or off. The spark suppression is now handled in an XT90S connector they give you in the packet. The switch for booting the thing up is still present and working.
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Alright. Here it is at long last lol.
U-Box Final with Heatsink.stl (223.3 KB)
and separated:
U-Box bottom.stl (137.1 KB)
U-Box Top.stl (86.3 KB)
An impromptu user-guide:
The design is intended to work with standard hardware that can be purchased locally. The slots in the side are for lock nuts; they measure very close to 6mmx9mm and are hexagonal at the end. You should try to get hardware that is as close to this size as possible so that the nut is unable to turn in the slot when you turn the screw.
I find it’s easiest when you insert the lock nuts “upside-down” so that the screw hits the side without nylon first. This helps get thing aligned to prevent cross-threading.
Use countersunk flat head screws to hold the enclosure closed. That’s what fits best.
I used standard #8-32 x 1.25" screws and lock nuts for mine. I guess metric is more universal but I went with what was readily available to me 
The slot for the heatsink accepts a 3" x 1/8" (51.4ish x 3.4ish mm) aluminum bar which is poorly cut to about 145mm. . It should fit snugly if your print comes out nice and clean but if it’s loose, the ESC will hold it in place once mounted.
The larger hole between the phase wire holes is for sensor wires etc.
The holes inside the bottom align with the holes in the U-BOX housing. I drilled all the way through my deck and inserted “tee nuts” which are also #8-32 thread pattern. When you insert the heatsink bar (and even if you opt not to) you’ll be able to drop screws through the UBOX, through the enclosure, and into or all the way through your deck.
P.S. I like to drill out the hardware holes in the print with a comparably sized drill bit (I used 5/32" or about 4mm?) to clean up the inside before inserting my hardware and to knock out any stringing/globs etc that might be an issue. It’s quick and ensures a clean fit.
The lid is not symmetrical so it will only go on one way (just to save you guys a couple hours of frustration since you spent so much time reading this post) 
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so after all this how large is the ubox?
No as in the 3d printed case just made?
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Oh your mean urbox not ubox
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