Any single version made or just the dual?
I think that setting needs to be “UART” only to work with the spintemd remote of any other UART remote
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The single is in process
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With IMU or without?
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I’m leaving town right now for the weekend but I will attempt the setup again tomorrow night with “App to Use” set to “UART” and with all other settings of that doesn’t work.
I will also try to get it working with my girlfriend’s remote, which is a traditional 2.4ghz ppm controller.
Thanks for the support!
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I know my load was 2.75 amps. I read that 3 amps is the max. So I hooked up to the wire that is triggered for headlights. And it blew. Before on 1.4 amps same wires no problem all day long. So I would say 3 amps is not accurate for the headlight switched load.
So I grabbed the common negative and it still grabs the 12 buck, and still is switched , buy this time only when the vesc is powered. So kinda bummed.
@John-Spintend. Can you tell me what I blew? And etc.
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I did expect something like this.
It’s written in the description, shared load shouldn’t exceed 3A.
So my theory is if you draw the 3A from one channel it will blow. If you split it on both channels it will be fine.
Means if you want to control lights via remote 1.5A will be your limit.
If you need 3A you will need to split the load on both channels and can only hard wire it.
Just my theory thou, not technically confirmed science.
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Well can always use a tiny Bosch 12v relay if you need
I’m 4 hours into 2.75 constant and zero issues
But without being able to control it via remote, right? Or did I got that wrong?
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@hardunclejohn as you are here, one question if I want to hard wire my lights.
I have two lights each 1A. Can I run them both through pin 1 and ground or better to split it like one light through pin 1 and ground and second light through pin 3 and ground?
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if you gose directly to GND, the lights will always on, none- switchable, because switching mosfet is placed on low side.
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Yes. I understand.
It still blew the switching circuit at 2.75.
Please modify instructions.
Also what part do I order to fix and where in the circuit board.
I also noticed there is a permanent mechanical deadzone in your remotes, the connection is great but that could use a redesign. Even with the deadzone set to 0 percent, the first 20 percent of movement is wasted
Also the cruise control is jumpy when you try to accelerate out of it or brake.
Battery life is good on remote
Also,. Regen braking amps don’t populate on remote.
Also hate how remote doesn’t auto turn off. 
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That’s what I did.
One is momentary latching (horn) and the other is latching. So you can’t
That’s what I want, but does it make sense to split the load between pin 1 and pin 3 or it doesn’t matter?
But there are 5 pins 
So I can if I don’t want any switching.
I feel very confused by the description “It still blew the switching circuit at 2.75.” How it blew up? And I need to check a picture like this one, can you send it to me?we can talk more on video call if possible .
And I left deadzone in remote, but it’s not as much as 20%?. I do forgot to set a auto turn off. My error. Will add it in new batch design.
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it dosen’t matter if you split the load between pin1 and pin3,pin1 and pin3 are directly connected in circuit.
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Perfect! That’s all I wanted to know 
