i have had a bit of everything happen, open loop, closed, fire and smoke. Im not qualified to talk about it, but that is the failure modes I have had on a wide array hardware. but bottom line is that im not interested in using something that isn’t designed properly. and I think very few newcomers really understands/values that, me included obviously.
This happened nearly two years ago because of a antispark blowing up. Luckily only the antispark and esc burnt to crisps.
Pretty sure the butyl tape and the composite deck and enclosure combo suffocated the fire.
I bought a voltmeter but do I need to get a seperate switch so that the light is only on while charging or something because I don’t think I can charge with the vesc on
So what Spintend mean is they removed the spark suppression circuit, that is when you plug a battery into a load and it doesnt spark. This isnt switching the device on or off. The spark suppression is now handled in an XT90S connector they give you in the packet. The switch for booting the thing up is still present and working.
The design is intended to work with standard hardware that can be purchased locally. The slots in the side are for lock nuts; they measure very close to 6mmx9mm and are hexagonal at the end. You should try to get hardware that is as close to this size as possible so that the nut is unable to turn in the slot when you turn the screw.
I find it’s easiest when you insert the lock nuts “upside-down” so that the screw hits the side without nylon first. This helps get thing aligned to prevent cross-threading.
Use countersunk flat head screws to hold the enclosure closed. That’s what fits best.
I used standard #8-32 x 1.25" screws and lock nuts for mine. I guess metric is more universal but I went with what was readily available to me
The slot for the heatsink accepts a 3" x 1/8" (51.4ish x 3.4ish mm) aluminum bar which is poorly cut to about 145mm. . It should fit snugly if your print comes out nice and clean but if it’s loose, the ESC will hold it in place once mounted.
The larger hole between the phase wire holes is for sensor wires etc.
The holes inside the bottom align with the holes in the U-BOX housing. I drilled all the way through my deck and inserted “tee nuts” which are also #8-32 thread pattern. When you insert the heatsink bar (and even if you opt not to) you’ll be able to drop screws through the UBOX, through the enclosure, and into or all the way through your deck.
P.S. I like to drill out the hardware holes in the print with a comparably sized drill bit (I used 5/32" or about 4mm?) to clean up the inside before inserting my hardware and to knock out any stringing/globs etc that might be an issue. It’s quick and ensures a clean fit.
The lid is not symmetrical so it will only go on one way (just to save you guys a couple hours of frustration since you spent so much time reading this post)
@hardunclejohn
Thanks to my first customer(for privacy ,I can’t name it out), we’re lucky enough that our first customer who’s been skateboarding for 40years, building electric skateboard for 7years, he is very professional and knows how to test a new product in most critical way. He used Ubox in racing eskateboard. Thanks for his test and patience, early key problem is fixed.
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@stratoglide
Supposedly psychotiller was able to get it to cutout under certain conditions of hard riding hence the diode being changed out, but the supposedly the conditions where 20+ km of continous riding then hard grass riding to get cutouts.
So… “Yellow is, hen puts it, fried is eaten” … my man @Psychotiller
