Well without trigger smart reverse works again but randomly there is a new auto-lock feature.
Connection seemed solid but tried to remove it. The lever plus another plastic part broke 
Iâm quite disappointed that I threw so much money out of the window when I bought the Wand plus 2 dongles. It took months until I decided to sacrifice that much money for a remote and I regret it.
You can change the pot for cheap.
Not very easy though.
You cut it down and de-solder each pin separately. Quite easy if you have a small cutting pliers. Soldering on a new one is very simple. Send us the PCB and we will sort you out.
Thanks for the info, didnât know that but exactly this is one of my personal problems. When I bought the Wand I was 1000% sure that there is a future shit poti with some support inside and not a cheap generic poti sold for 3 bucks where the trigger scratches on the aluminium enclosure. I thought itâs made for MTB so it should survive at least 1000 crashes with ease. I crash quite often so I need a tough reliable remote. If you donât crash on your MTB you donât ride hard enough 
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Thanks Frank I appreciate the help but I couldnât trust the same PCB with a new poti, also I kind of destroyed the display connector. For the shipping costs back and forth I can buy another VX1.
I like the wand in general and I donât have the connection issues others have but I too have found that it is not very crash worthy.
Even if you donât actually crash the trigger, when dirt gets inside it can block the plastic piston inside the pot.
It still is my main remote but I always carry a spare maytech with me.
The good thing is that changing the pot is cheap and then the remote is like new.
I had that issue with other thumb wheel remotes as well.
Been getting âjoystick faulty read user manualâ errors pretty much every ride lately.
What triggers that?
@Trampa
Had one of those on hand already.
Was absolute aids to desolder the old one with the fat ass layer of conformal coating I had on it 
Desoldering is easy. You need to cut all pins with pliers and then desolder each pin separately.
Done about 50 km with the Wand remote. When I switched it on today it reported âfaulty joystickâ out of the blue. Nothing happened, e.g. I did not drop the remote or something like that. Switched it off and back on and everything fine again. However, I am a little worried that the joystick will not work when I need it most. What do you think?
It has basically found a spot where the poti didnât send a signal we would expect.
Those signals are ignored as input signals. If this fault pops up again, we will sort that out.
By âpotiâ you mean potentiometer, I guess? Although I donât know what that is ⌠will look it up.
I understand that if I get that error repeatedly, I should contact you and send in the remote for repair right?
Should I be worried that it will not work when needed most, sudden strong breaking (or acceleration) necessary?
Potentiometer, yes. Bad signals will not be used, so even if the potentiometer has a dead spot, the software will weed out any signal that does not fit in between the row of signals.
Hmm. How is the pot wired? Only to the wiper? Cause then I can understand you got issues. Or are the pots really that bad? 
I was skating along then board does a small sudden burst of acceleration then a moment later board accelerates at full power (Trampa Wand said âjoystick faulty read user manualâ) controller isnât breaking then brake kicks in sending me flying through the air and tumbling across the road. Board kept powering on and off until it hit a fence.
oh damn Goldmember are you okay- i recall i was trying to setup my wand with my raptor as you had done - makes me second guess that now.
JESUS CHRIST i almost had a heart attack.
So, board on charge, wheels down, remote on table, just came from work and completely forgot itâs throttle locked, not off.
About half an hour later i almost fell asleep, when the board starts dragging itself backwards, with the charger, nightstand, and scraping the wall/door 
I checked faults, threads, nada. I put the wheels up and turn on the remote, first thing full throttle for half a second. What the actual fuck?
How did you switch on the remote, with the left or the right button?
Right button. I am well aware of the button action registering right after boot bug and cruise control should otherwise start at 0km/hr and actively brake to maintain that speed
Edit: also not that relevant since i used the board for a few decent km before throttle locking it
