Some New FOCers (84V VESC 6 based controllers)

Typically we use 3 Hall sensors per motor. Are you talking about 2 Hall sensors or two sets of 3 Hall sensors (to control 2 motors)?

EDIT: I see you’re talking about doing a build with a Unity, so I’m sure you mean 2 sets of Hall sensors. My bad.

@ziploc
Yeah, that’s what I meant. I’d like to see ESCs that can just accept the motor sem2sor wires wothout needing adapters like these

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So question here. Do most motors come with the JST ZH 6 pin connector?

got three different motors with hallsensors. Noone of em have the same connector.

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there are motors out which have the 6pin 2mm jst PH plug already installed.
even if your motor has a 2mm jst PH plug installed, but the sensor wires are the same length as the phase wires you would probably need an adapter anyway.
there is no standard for the sensor wire plug, so it always depends on the motor you buy.

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Submitted for round 2 of the review. Crafting this thing has been like going through a mental marathon. So many things to consider all at once…

So yeah only some slight changes since the last pic. The connector panel is now at the front. The film caps are now at angle for a better placement. Even fractions of a millimeter in placement and layout for power electronics make a difference.

Stay tuned everybody! I’ll keep yall posted as I always have.

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I see two PCBs. Are they still 4 layer or are you using two 2 layer PCBs so it’s cheaper?

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Still 4 layer. After much discussion about 2 layer vs 4 layer in price and quality, 4 layer wins. The cost of the PCB isn’t really a significant percentage of the overall cost of my controller if I’m making several at a time. Also 4 layer PCBs enable so much more capability, size reduction, current carrying capacity, and electrical noise improvements.

2 layer PCBs still make sense for purely low-quantity DIY stiff like the Cheap FOCer. However, manufacturing for a legit product is a different story.

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I’m still working on it everyone. I’ve pitched an alternate version of this design to my reviewer. It involves still having 2 boards but the control board plugs into a swappable power stage board with headers. Think TI’s booster packs and MSP430 combo except its FOCed up :slight_smile:

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@shaman Is IMU integrated by any change In this new version? With the last vesc tool update, external and internal IMU are a lot easier to play with.

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Can you explain this IMU? I haven’t taken it into account.

Gyroscope accelerometer…inertial measuring unit :slight_smile:

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Gotcha. No I left that and the NRF thingy out. I’m mainly targeting typical traction applications with these FOCers. However, I have routed all unused MCU pins to a header so that you can connect external modules if you want.

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Having two PCBs sandwiched Evolve-style makes it hard to waterproof.

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Got any good pics of this controller?I’d like to see what you’re talking about

edit: found some here https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/evolve-gt-problems-solutions/5486/126

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So could you expand on how its hard to waterproof?

From my point of view most places inside the sandwich will be hard to get to and no way of knowing if you got every part of it. If you waterproof beforehand, can’t really be putting solder and flux afterwards

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@Flasher for my controller you would just conformal coat each board before you sandwich them together. The boards just connect with headers (I haven’t shown this yet…its a secret) Also, my idea of waterproofing electronics is to put them in a waterproof enclosure or pot them in a compound.

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@shaman Dont know if my arguments sound aggressive, not trying to be whatsoever :slight_smile:
But then that specific header is not waterproofed and makes waterproofing the rest completely useless. As for other methods, cases are never guaranteed to be waterproof (ex: screwholes, wire passthrough, silicone sleeving of the wires themselves can bring in water)and if you were to pot the whole thing, yes, you gained a bulletproof pcb but you lose any and all possibility of troubleshooting a hardware failure

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You’re arguments are fine and seem to be justified :slight_smile:

True yeah headers that simply butt together wouldn’t be waterproof after all. Potting does have the disadvantage of making repair hard. Theoretically if the design is bullet proof under the normal operating conditions, then you shouldn’t have to repair it. This sort of thing would be ok for commercial implementations where I would be responsible for returned units. However I’m sure fellow hobbyists wouldn’t enjoy having to peel away silicone potting compound. This is where the DIY kits come in. You can solve the waterfproofing thing however you want :slight_smile: