Yeah guess you can’t please everyone - yknow maybe like @Prism says you could have pads, and then reinforced by screw mounts on either side so if someone wanted the connector there they could solder it there?
It is hard to predict what way someone will want to mount the controller but being that it is shaped like the 4.12 design, I wonder if maybe the short side would be a good candidate
Then again it is hard to deliver something if you aren’t 100% sure if the customer will ruin by accident
Providing the ability to customize your controller is why the DIY kit will be a thing. You put it together with whatever cables and enclosure you want.
Also, I’m still debating on how I’m going to handle the enclosure for the fully assembled units. The enclosure may not allow for bare pads to be exposed depending on what I decide on. For example if I pot the controller in thermal silicone compound, then access to the bare board will not be possible without removing the potting compound ( i.e. pain in the ass).
What ever you decide cables sticking 90 deg out the side causes issues when squashed in to a case. Wether is strain on the solder pads or bent cables heating up and splitting the cable sheving. with solder pads at the very edge. the VESC 4.xx had the cables passing over the caps as a dirty way of providing some strain relief avoided the issue.
I’ve had enough bad experiences with those godawful screw terminals from 3D printing I’m going to advise against them, especially with the vibrations an esk8 goes through on a daily basis.
I’m not too worried about cable strain and such. There will most likely be internal strain relief (that’s not janky) and also there will be rubber grommets for cable entry.
If cables sticking out at 90 degrees causes so many issues, then how are the FOCBOX, VESC, and whatever else doing it with success?
Unity has had more than one complaint about it on the other forum with results of scorching and burned cables or burnet board.
VESC 6 is in a case with a grommets
So did Focbox this mover the twist mostly off the solder pad more on to the stranded cable as the case takes a large portion of the strain. But not the best for a neat cable management in a e sk8 was just a idea of some thing to consider.
IMO the way the unity supply is attached is a good example of some thing that was flagged up in pre production photos ignored and has caused issues. the best part is 99% of people bend the unity cables in the same way so why not make them come out that way and eliminate the cause.
It’s just my observation and opinion up to you if you think it’s worth considering or dismissing. If we all did the same and thought the same we all were the same cloths and do the same thing as robots. New ideas and solutions either improve and develop things or get throw in the trash.
Mind linking the threads with the damaged cables and such? I’d like to check it out.
I agree. That’s why I ask this thread for ideas…I just need justification before I alter my design for a feature. Unfortunately I won’t be able to make the connector come out the way you have depicted. I can do a panel connector but it would still be oriented perpendicular to the side wall. At this point I can do my best to prevent damage/strain to the cables. I have a few mechanical things I can implement into either the PCB design or the enclosure design to help.
As a total noob who is gathering parts for my first build (with a Unity), I would LOVE to see a fully pre-built ESC have connections for 2 hall sensors and have the same sized motor connector plugs as most motors (5.5mm?) to eliminate the need for adapters.
The DRV8302/8301 are relatively old. The one I’m using has a lot more protection features. Also I’m not running it only 10V away from it’s absolute max.
The CAN transceiver I’m using is much stronger than other controllers. It’s the TCAN1042H and can handle ±70V on the bus lines without issue.
The buck converter in my design for the 5V power supply has built in current limiting and thermal shutdown. The current limiting will kick in before it dies and it will also shut down completely if it gets too hot.
I wouldn’t have thought this to be an issue. Are there cases where PCB material was scorched or burned from the soldering?