Trickle charge it back up & it’s likely fine. Especially if the cells are otherwise new & healthy. Probably lose a nearly-negligible amount of capacity all said & done.
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Well, considering I don’t actually have a lab PSU at the moment and buying one will take some time, I think the battery will already be unrecoverable, and at minimum unsafe if it does recover.
It’s only 12 cells, I think I’ll build a new one. Now, where can I get my hands on some P45Bs? I would definitely benefit from them as I push this battery to its limits 
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War did i do
44°?
Let’s see it
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man this build thread was a roller coaster. I love tiny boards, but then the battery was murdered! what a twist!
I have a 9S4P 30Q in my single drive LY dingy. The 160mm calibers don’t really let me feel the torque steer that much either. I think narrower trucks in general are better for single drives, which is fortunate, because they sort of require them if you like bigger motors, never mind the lack of space for a second ESC.
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…?
Oh, I missed this part.
Didn’t mean to rub salt on it 
Update:
I built a 12s2p battery out of leftover 30Q cells I had. Reused the BMS from the dead battery, and angled one side of the battery a little to decrease its overall width so that it fits in the enclosure.
I’m using a MakerX mini FOC ESC on top of the battery. This allows me to maximize the available enclosure space while still staying with 12s for charger compatibility 
Also using a puck remote now for reliability and inter-compatibility with my other setups.
I’m stoked to have this board rideable again 
Hopefully I now get 18 - 23km range 
I’m using FW 6.0, and VSS, since the hub is sensorless. Braking seems a bit weak, so I might switch back to plain sensorless operation and see if that helps.
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I hate it when I like a thread and forget to follow it 
Crazy build progression! Super dreamy setup for a quick go board
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Nickel connection broke on the battery. I guess folding nickel over like this is not a reliable pack building method. Wish I didn’t have an even larger pack built like this, but I hope that its nickel, being thicker and not cut up like this strip, will survive 
Need to figure out what to do with this battery now, probably need to completely rebuild it / scrap it 
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3rd time’s the charm…
Built a 12s1p out of P45Bs. The weight difference between the previous 12s2p battery is noticeable; I wonder if I’ll see any noticeable difference in range compared to the P42A 12s1p I had originally.
I know the balance wires are a mess. I know electrical tape isn’t good enough for electrically insulating stuff in batteries. I think with kapton tape holding it down it’s good enough for this specific build. Do as I say, not as I do.
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I definitly do
This is what it’s like to ride this board in the city, if anyone was wondering:
Also being able to fast charge this board thanks to the P45Bs has already come in handy once 
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Donde video of 50 kph?
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12a charging a 1p battery 
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Charge em with something. 
The downhill street I used to bomb got covered in gravel exactly they day I took my action cam with me 
Hopefully it’s temporary and I can return to my ways
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I look forward to the day.
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Took a hard fall a few weeks ago in the dark. Not sure how, but the board completely slid out from under me.
One thing I noticed is that my front truck wiggles side to side, which is pretty bad.
As a band-aid fix suggested by @PedroMcJimenez , I applied grip-tape on the bottom of the riser stack to prevent it from shifting 
Proper solution is to drill new holes and avoid using risers in the future. I have a Bioboards baseplate with integrated riser ordered already for that reason. Which means cost of this board only keeps increasing 
Also, I was unable to get Metr CAN to work with my maker x mini foc ESCs. Not sure what’s up with that, probably a 5V rail issue.
Also also, the ABS enclosure is showing cracking signs at some of the corners where the bolts hold it down. I really hope I don’t have to make my own enclosure for this thing…
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