Small board | Loaded Coyote | 12s1p P45B | Unlimited hub motor

ooff, I guess good to know the motor clamp stayed on? This would make me itchy for 2wd just to spread the braking load, maybe a DV4 if you can squeeze it in

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what kind of threadlocker?

Red

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Red

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R255 GO B0

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Red isn’t a type of threadlocker.

It’s helpful to know what type failed, this could be a life or death failure, and it’s good to know what specifically failed. It may help someone else. It won’t help me; I epoxy my axles in because I don’t trust threadlockers that much. But it could definitely help someone.

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Yeah it is. You should ask for the brand and formula code number instead of saying it doesn’t exist.

Screenshot 2023-09-10 112433

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Maybe we should spend time helping people instead of spending time talking about how we can avoid helping them.

Just a thought.

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The red type.

Glad i could help.

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@xsynatic thinks it’s better to spend as much time as possible AVOIDING doing things to help folks not wipe out on their boards.

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Sorry, I should have been more specific. It’s the Red kind

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Come on dude. You preach stuff like this, then act completely oblivious whenever you could actually do something that makes a difference.

This is not helpful. This just makes people frustrated with you and no knowledge is shared.

“Was it Loctite 271/272 that was on the axle when it failed?”

This is entirely more helpful and gets across your same point. Now a future reader could gain valuable knowledge about this failure when OP is naturally more inclined to respond to your productive discourse as opposed to your bad faith arguing above.

You want helpful change? Make it start with you, and people will certainly follow. But your current strategy of feigning ignorance and bickering just makes the forum a worse place for people to learn.

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Thank you @rusins. :muscle:

Your reply is the only helpful one, the others are all hate-based.

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To be fair, i had red colored (other brand) on my axles but that stuff was for airsealing thread on pressure tubes and it also breaks out white, didnt know until i read bottle, got bamboozled.

I added some 12V lights to the board.

Hot-glued led ring light at the front.


And these boat-LED bolts in the rear. Unfortunately it looks like they’re not actually one piece of metal, as I was tightening the nut on one of them on the other side the stem of the bolt came loose from the button head with the LED :open_mouth:


I’m happy with the brightness of these. They just need to be bright enough to be visible at night. However I really wish I had tested my 12V buck converter better, because after 1 minute of being on it just turns off / lowers in voltage, such that the front no longer glows and the rear becomes really dim. So ******* annoying. Anyone know of a quality 50V → 12V stepdown? The front draws 60mA, which is only 0.7W of power, so I really don’t need anything powerful.

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Those bolts look really bright. What part number are those, or do you have a link? Are they that bright outside on city streets in traffic?

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Is that a shoulder bolt from the truck hanger? IF so, i have to mention that it is very stupid using these kind of trucks on hub motor boards. Just my 2 cents.

It’s a regular axle, but I don’t think anything would change from using a shoulder bolt as well, given there are appropriate spacers. What makes my shortboard unique from the prebuilt competition is that I have quality precision trucks that won’t bend or break from riding. Well, that + having a remote that won’t drop connection :laughing:

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To be fair that axle is a shoulder bolt just with the head machined down. I think what they’re saying is a bolt in round axle rather than a cast or square attached axle is the problem because it can unscrew if the loctite isn’t good enough

I think swapping the side the motor would be a good idea so you won’t back the axle out on braking

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