Just thinking out loud since I’m not that familiar with this area either, but maybe try twisting the wires leading to the switch to decrease inductance? Or maybe a filter capacitor?
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If finally works, the high pass filter is what made the difference
The twisted leads and a shield cable would be my next steps
Now into disassembling my old 10S3P to make a 6S3P
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Glad to hear you got it solved! Surprising how much interference some switch leads would pick up…
6S5P? You’d be mixing P groups, but cell ages being the same might make it (more) ok…
On the hills, llimitation will probably be heat. Even with 3P, either motor or esc…
You bet, I was almost giving up and using a normal remote
6S3P, as a 10S3P they have been together from the start, and the 5S3P half that I was using on the ebike previously may have 10 cycles more at most
Yeah, I will be monitoring it, I ziptied and old iPod touch on the handlebars so at least in the beginning I can keep an eye on the temperatures and play with the maximum current it can handle
Everything sealed up, hopping no more problems appear, and a nice squeeze all around
Also the battery is almost done, and I found this bag with a quick disconnect that fits the battery perfectly
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That rear tyre looks very slick! I guess that’s the deal with friction. How long did it take to wear out like that?
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Looking good!
And with the bag, surprisingly stealthy. The mount could probably almost be disguised as a water bottle bracket if you needed to…
What app do you have on the ipod? I wouldn’t have expected any of the current apps to support an ios from when it was still on the market.
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It is like that from the factory, took me a long time to find one suitable that wasn’t fully slick since I ride on the dirt a lot
I tried it first with a tire like the front, if works, but the noise and vibration gets unbearable
Yeah, really liked it, lets see if it lasts with the way I ride, going down stairs and all that
The water bottle idea is really nice, even better than the bag. The first version the plan was to make a water bottle lookalike to house everything, VESC and all, but I completely forgot now that only the battery will be removable
eSkate VESC is the app, while the iPod is old, it has iOS 9, so not that far behind
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Another concept I’ve been working on is to have just a single motor drive the chainring, climbing would be improved a lot, of the highest gear we are looking at 20 km/h, versus 47 km/h of the current setup, but the biggest advantage is being able to spinup the motor and get out of the crap efficiency zone of the VESC
The idea is to use the gears that had been bought for my gear drive as a first stage
The gearing would be 20/80 on gears, 9/42 on chain, and the normal bike gearing, the tallest being 22/34
Maximum theoretical climbing is 17% at the same 35 A motor current as the friction drive, this can be increased if needed
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Based on the drawing, are you sacrificing the large chainring as a drive, and only pedaling the mid and low gears? (I also thought sprockets bottomed out at 11, but hadn’t looked into non-bike 0.5" pitch sprockets)
The only real disadvantage of this setup I see is that you’ll never be able to -not- pedal unless you take your feet off the pedals and add foot pegs or something. There have been freewheeling chainrings in the past (only Shimano, I think), but they’re properly vintage at this point…
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Exactly, I have a 9 teeth one that came with a brushed motor I bought a long time ago
Yeah, I’ve been thinking about that. This and also that the motor will always have a bit of drag on the pedals if the battery dies
A 14T freewheel on the motor would solve that, but also lower the overall gearing that is already a bit too low. I think the way is to build as it is and improve over time
There are some freewheeling cranksets made with this exactly application in mind, and doing both this and the freewheel would solve both problems
this is exactly what I have in mind
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Interesting! I hadn’t looked for e-bike specific mid drive conversions. it looks like it would do the job nicely.
Double freewheels (motor and crank) seems a bit excessive, but I can’t say I’d have an easy way out of it for this setup. From the road cycling world, they do make chainrings upwards of 55-60 tooth, bolt circle might be off though.
For speed, any thoughts about increasing your s count again? At 230 kv, you can support a full 10s sliding in just below the ~60k erpm limit to make up for the lower gearing, no comment about how much heat the motor would be subjected to at those volts/speeds though… Might be worth a trial even with the unbalanced pack to see how it fares going almost 70% faster.
It’s a quite popular, although expensive, this one is as good as it gets
https://tangentmotors.com/ascent
For this setup it doesn’t make much sense, only thing it would do is decrease the battery current, at full charge the crank is already spinning at 240 rpm, way above a normal cadence, to take advantage of increasing the voltage the gearing would have to be way more aggressive, probably another stage to add
Oof, seems my short term memory is a bit faulty. lol. 120rpm is about where my cadence tops out, and that’s not a fun time, so doubling that or more would be rough indeed. Especially if you were to smack the back of your ankle or something while under power…
I was looking at AliExpress again, there are a decent selection of gears for around 10$ a piece, if I find this lacks torque, going 10S and gearing down more is definitely possible
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Going for the first almost completed test drive
One P group is higher than the rest and this shitty BMS doesn’t have balance, I shouldn’t even bothered to install it
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5 km ride and 4.9 Wh/km, this should get me 40 km of assistance, not having to constantly hold the button is a bless, and having three power levels makes for a better matching between terrain and assist, most of times the full 35 A is too much and a waste of battery
In the end I went full power without pedaling to see how the temps held up, almost 80 °C on both motor and FSESC, I guess during the day and on longer rides it will thermal throttle, the motor cools really fast
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. Potential to 60 km rides
Off topic but make sure you don’t cut your finger on that phone screen, looks like the digitizer pad is lifting a little.
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It’s fine 
What impress me most is that this iPod must be almost 5 years old or more, and the battery still lasts a long time
And it sat fully discharged in a drawer for more than 2 years
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