Hi, to begin with just a short introduction, i’ve been lurking in this forum and the old one for a few years. Got my first Evolve Gtr last summer, and have since enjoyed a few rides with @Silverline, @dk-odense, @Kornum and the Stefans, they all ride either Trampa or Mbs boards, my Evolve felt horribly underpowered . So after our last ride, I promptly started to tell my girlfriend about the joys of mountain boarding, we agreed on a budget, which I after ordering 75% of the parts, have already exceeded. Hence the board name, Don’t tell swmbo.
So to the parts ordered.
Mbs Comp 95 deck, with Mbs Matrix 2 trucks and F5 bindings. The deck looks awesome!
Motor Mount, I am thinking belt drive, would love a gear drive, but to save some money, and because I love a challenge, I am trying to design my own motor mount. Using a lot of 3d printing for prototyping.
The battery will be center mounted in a pelican style box. Should receive it later this week. For the focbox I am working on a rear mounted box. Thinking either 3d printed, or Cnc machined in pom. How much of a problem is heat with a Focbox? Could have the entire vesc box cnc machined in aluminum, but it introduces the chance of short circuits.
Thanks, i think i will get the top and bottom plates on the VESC enclosure machined from aluminium, and the side either 3d printed or machined from pom. Still need to figure out how to get cable’s in and out, but keep it water tight.
If you want to have water tight connections, either JB Weld in an extension with connectors on both ends permanently through the walls or buy a pack of cable glands and screw those in place
I’m impatiently waiting for parts, got a Peli Case style box incoming for the battery, and 15/68t pulleys coming from @ElectricBoardSolutions. I got a bit of work done last night, mostly soldering xt60 connections for the charge setup, and worked a bit on the Vesc Box design. I decided to use cable glands.
Im not MBS, but I would recommend 2 part tabletop epoxy (or any clear 2 part epoxy you got on hand). I dont think it really matters that much. This is shaping up to be a nice build, im really interested to see what you do with your motor mounts, especially these;
In fact, I like these so much that I think you should make the finished mounts this shade of pink.
Epoxy it is then . Haven’t worked with that before, so another new thing to learn.
For motor mounts I’m starting with the simple one without idler. I think the prototype needs to be a bit longer to allow for full adjustment of the idler pulley, and I would really like to keep this as simple and compact as possible. Hopefully gonna get them cnc machined next week.
Thanks, will do. More work for the cnc workshop . How would i mount the focbox to the lid? Screws in the focbox cooling plate, or remove the focbox cooling plate, and use some sort of heat glue.
I would just mount the focbox plates onto the heatsink. But you can also bolt the pcb on the heatsink with small standoffs and put a thermal pad on the FETS which in turn contacts the aluminium. Choosing the route with casing would be safer i guess, less chance of shorting stuff and its sturdier.
For example: @Skatardude10 bolted the neobox pcb’s directly to a dual focbox heatsink, you can also see the thermal pads. Maybe he can tell you what heatsink he uses.
Yeah, i agree. Best to keep it in the casing. I found this plate designed by @moon at some point. That’s the way i’ll go. Time to fire up Fusion 360 again :-D.
. So after our last ride, I promptly started to tell my girlfriend about the joys of mountain boarding, we agreed on a budget, which I after ordering 75% of the parts, have already exceeded. Hence the board name, Don’t tell swmbo.
. Haven’t worked with that before, so another new thing to learn.
. How would i mount the focbox to the lid? Screws in the focbox cooling plate, or remove the focbox cooling plate, and use some sort of heat glue.
