[Serious] How To Solder | Soldering Guide | The Complete Tutorial From A>Z

Esk8 Electronics Guides, Support, & General Questions
#262

the man inside me says that’s pretty excellent imo

the women inside me says you could do better
(that’s what she said)

:rofl:

i fill up the connector half way with solder, then take the tinned wire and place it on the connector.
place the iron on the wire, it will heat up, then melt the solder on the connector, i then proceed to push the wire into the connector using the iron and make sure everything combines and then let it cool. trickiest thing with this method i find is if you don’t tin you wire enough, or add to little solder to the connector then the wires sokes it up and you have to add solder, and vice versa if you add to much to the connector then it overflows and then that’s when you have to pull out the suckeroo of defeat from your draw.

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#263

I hope you soldered that with the XT90 male connected, otherwise you may get some pin movement.

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#264

can this be soldered on the side of the pin and is the long side of the port the positive?

IMG-0344
IMG-03442448×3264 969 KB

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#265

yes ofc, don’t forget to heat shrink it after tho

It should be, but I could be wrong

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#266

found a similar port and apparently the short is positive, have only seen it in one description though so not sure

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#267

I guess you’ll have to figure it out with your charger :man_shrugging:

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#268

plug the charger into the port, switch it on and test with multimeter you reckon?

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#269

correct

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#270

Absolutely possible. Note that’s a plastic charge port so make the soldering job swiftly, otherwise it will start melting the plastic and the tab will loosen up :slightly_smiling_face:

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#272

Quick question:
I am starting my first board soon and I am considering not soldering cables together but rather always use connectors. That means everything is modular and easily replacable. What do you think about that?

Thanks!

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#273

You need to solder the wire to the connector though right? xD

Crimping big wires isn’t recommended with the vibrations we experience.

#274

Yeah! XD soldering wire to connector yes, only no wire-to-wire soldering.
The background is mainly because I have left over connectors and like the idea of modularity.

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#275

that’s what most of us do! we use AMASS connectors. make sure to use the right connector as high Amps quickly translates to a lot of heat! wouldn’t want to connector to melt and short!

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#276

let me add on top of that, we use GENUINE AMASS connectors, there are shit tons of fakes out there claiming to be amass brand, make sure u get the real shit. the fake one doesn’t last long until u go superman

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#277

Thanks!
I was about to use the ones from flipsky!

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#278

A little noob question here: Do I need (additional) flux when the solder has flux in it?

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#279

No not necessarily.

Totally doable without extra.

Though sometimes it comes in handy.

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#280

Thanks!

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#281

Yeah @2rill not 100% necessary, but if you find that it’s just not sticking, it can often be helpful to flux and tin the troublesome surface before soldering to it

I use flux on most joints no matter what because it just makes it easier.

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#282

Thanks for the feedback!
Since it’s good practice to use flux, I want to use it, but I’m struggling a bit to find flux suited for electrical work in the stores where I live and I’m too impatient atm to wait for shipping if I get it online. I think I’ll still try to get a hold of it though, but if I can’t it’s nice to know that I can do without.
Thanks again guys!

2 Likes