this right here
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That Zhen 60/40 stuff was acting a lot like lead-free.
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Got a soldering iron to which i can only attach a “needle tip” shaped soldering tip. That a no go or is it just my technique (total novice here)?
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Yes thank you, there you go:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07DVJTCVZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_ZCm8FbQZDHVG2
Hope this link doesn’t break forum rules…
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ah so you have a soldering iron from Lidl? 
I’m sure it’s fine, just make sure it’s hot enough since needle tips don’t disperse the heat as much as a fat c4/t18 tip.
What troubles are you having in particular?
Thought the problem might be the contact patch of the tip being too small, thus not being able to distribute the heat properly. Might be my soldering skills being sub par though…
So far everything i tried worked out. Just looks shitty.
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soldering with a shitty iron is hopeless. sure technique matters but not really.
I went from 30 year old iron, to budget Weller that I had a few weeks, then I did some research and got myself a ts100 with a mean well power supply that I cranked up to 27 volts, proper soldering iron tips for each job and 2 pounds of MG-chemicals 63/37 rosin core solder.
Give it to someone you dont like and get a new one.
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Never, you hear me - we are ONE
As is the big blob of solder we decorate wires with.
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im surprised you can get the blobs to stick to something. might be a keeper.
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I pretty much like the iron, despite the wonky press-button-to-heat-up mechanic. Just wanted to know what a person knowing how to solder properly thinks of these kind of tips.
Trying to solder wires to my power button melted the contacts in the plastic housing loose, so power should be sufficient despite the iron being battery powered.
By all means get a new tip, the smaller the better! No but seriously you got a battery powered soldering iron for 6.99 pounds from Lidl, a new tip wont do you any good.
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My idea was the tip being too small, so i should be good. No need to get artsy. Just want to be able to get a few small jobs done.
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you need flux to make the solder flow. My bet is that you got lead free garbage solder with that iron as you linked a German amazon page and that wont help very much.
And some good quality flux really helps on top of that.
You melt the plastic insulation if you heat the wire for too long at a low temperature. silicone wires are more forgiving for that reason.
Bad solder joints in a skateboard is a dangerous thing, just trying to save you face or house.
If you scroll through this thread and do some gargling you will get a good understanding of what gear to use how to solder.
Just my opinion anyways
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I appreciate. So far the few joints i soldered seem to be solid. Will keep your advice in mind though.
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Flux is the key to get decent results with a shitty iron. Im using MG-chemicals in a tub there as well.
Leaded solder helps a ton. preferably some 63/37 rosin solder to minimize that risk of cold soldering.
Also wiping the tip with a brass sponge then putting some solder on the tip right before you solder each and every joint is key. if the tip isn’t shiny you can’t solder shit.
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where is the 3d printed version of this for the ts80/100.
ts100 would be good because it would be easy to “jack” into it’s power delivery. I guess you could pull volts from a modified USB C cable.
I don’t think it would be that amazing but I sure want to try it, I would also want the solder to be dispensed to the side or bottom.
https://www.amazon.com/MEKTY-Soldering-Automatic-Hand-Auto-Electric/dp/B0895WPLFS/ref=asc_df_B0895WPLFS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=475794938858&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7362182791279247958&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033506&hvtargid=pla-1056529758178&psc=1
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Been in the DIY scene about 6months and just got myself some good soldering stuff. Feedback appreciated on my solder joints. Any improvements? Want to make sure I’m doing it 100%. 
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I always get it to a full liquid state where the wire can move around inside the molten solder and push it in as it cools down.
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