Dude, so much work in this build! Hope you find some more time to get it done!
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I only use MR-60’s. Best motor phase connector by far (including the triangular one). Bullet connectors are way more dangerous
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Leave it like this for tonite, maybe another 1hr to figure out wire routing and make a ESC power cable splitter.
I’m wanting to get this bms powered up soon to get cells balanced. balance cables are separated & affixed to the sidewalk with kapton tape, I’ll place a piece of fishpaper over them.
Tight squeeze with 13s!, yes the anti-spark & charger port need to be wired as well, this anti-spark uses power so a loopkey for storage is also on the cards. Need to cad another rendition of the riser I printed to accommodate these.
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As @bevilacqua said, these connector make everything so much neater, even more if you embed them in the deck
You din’t weld with them connected to each other right? In my experience this weaken the spring force of them due to being compressed under high temperature
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I did actually! Didn’t think of that, will check on that becoming a problem.
I normally do this as a failsafe for any warping during soldering
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So it looks like I managed to blow a focbox by some clumsy retiring of the phases, so add another to the repair pile 
Need to dig another out from something somewhere V1.6
Apart from that loving the OSSR and Hummie sound.
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It took many more cups of coffee then this, the Yoga mat will need to make a reappearance, too much spaghetti & not enough space.
The OSSR gives me my volt reading 
, plan is to wire in the phase leads for the A/S and remove the switch altogether for kick to start.
I’m the front I’ll add an XT90 loopkey for storage using @niuva’s cool 11mm riser design? Maybe have to remove the goggle eyes 
This
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Thanks good advice, some work there I’ll definitely look into that if I can’t get closure as it were, the 11mm riser fitted ok but the design needs rework for where the wire routing is in the deck, replaced with a @RipTideSports tunnel riser for now .
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MR60 fit snuggly into the motor wire hole. Just sand the exterior plastic housing a bit.
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Good one, thanks I’ll also check that out for sure
Hummies do not have sensors 
I have the connectors inside. The trick is to pass the mr60 first, then there is enough space to pass the sensor wires.
Locating them outside is perfectly fine too, you can even dye them black with RIT
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I really need some Hummies in the long term if I plan to stay in germany…
They look so good
I hope to start working soon, being a broke student sucks sometimes 
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Enjoy it, it won’t last forever & you can make cool shit as you’ve shown already.
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This is more like the design needed for Haya @bevilacqua Maybe I should take your deck basplate design and extrapolate it into @niuva’s find out where the routing is …exactly
afaik, it’s fine to just place the loopkey smack bang in the middle of the pack…it doesn;t matter where you break it.
This is to not drain the pack using a A/S which passively drains…basically storage time.
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Careful, I did this with a bms. When I broke loopkey connection, board still had power. I think the bms was completing the circuit on the balance wires. Was sweating bullets…
I was drunk with power the other evening and fixed a typo in your title.
Forgive me for my fatal transgressions.
Love the build log man. And the scrappy approach.
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It’s a moveable feast, thanks
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I’ll have to think about that
…but by Jove I think you could be onto something, theoretically the bms will still be connected via the via pos. balance leads & could drain, will need to test that.
It’s wired for discharge only so I guess if I break the pos. main and wait for A/S sleep to happen then measure for drain across the A/S inputs…mmm multimeter shenanigans
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Maybe wait till I’ve printed this 1st rendition
https://a360.co/2JqhkM2
Edit: need to massage the xt90 fitment a little, please wait any Haya owners
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