It passed our testing for phase detection and voltage checking. But I will make sure it is stricter on this for production batch.
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Is this the correct conformal coating for this application? @b264?
Should I avoid fet interface with sink?
Just slather it on right? Avoiding connectors.
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Also, I managed snap off a hex standoff taking the lid off.
Be careful unscrewing the external m2 screws.
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Can someone else who owns a NEObox v6 thicken the thermal pad under the fets and check if there’s a noticeable change in temp?
Thermal pads NEED contact… And by the looks of it the fets are making zero contact 
Put the thinnest single coat possible on the FETs first. Let that dry.
Option 1:
Make sure you got between them as well. Go fast, because it dries quick and is thick. Don’t worry about getting extra on there as long as it isn’t directly on top of the FETs. Even in between them it can be thick.
Option 2:
This is more difficult. Not sure how good you are at painting. Get the tops really thin, then after it dries go back and put thick coats in between them without getting any on top, but touching all sides of them. This is better but requires tedious brush skills.
Then, whichever way you did it, after that dries (20 minutes) go back and get the rest of it with a thick coat. Everything except don’t get any inside the USB jack. And I am assuming you’re not using any of the JST connector, ever. If you are, you need to plug those in first or they will never work if you brush the pins.
Make sure anywhere water can touch, you’ve “touched” first with acrylic.
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make sure to remove this solder ball and check for others
I don’t like the solder on the caps in front of the phase leads either 🤷
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Throw a sacrificial micro USB plug into the port before you start, helps keep it off the pins.
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I put an extension on there and seal it all up including the extension.
Depends how the USB jack is oriented though and how the enclosure is. You don’t want mechanical stress on that USB jack. There are also non-90 degree versions of that. Make sure it’s a data cable and not just power.
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I really miss the MG Chemicals # 419C because it was super thin and awesome for FETs. Then 419D on the rest. Unfortunately, 419C is unobtainium and discontinued and the little bit I have left is not leaving here.
The can is definitely the right stuff, but it’s 1000ml which is 20 times too much 
If you buy that can, I want to buy some from you…
The other thing, I don’t know what that is.
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419C is THIN af and dries SUPER fast, like sometimes within single digit seconds.
It’s GREAT for FETs but not great for the rest of the PCB. Best thing ever for FETs.
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@Scepterr, fixed
@Sn4Pz, doubled up silicone, usb inserted.
@b264, hold my Corona
Filled down a brass replacement, drilled out broken standoff.
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I like to use 1/16" empd foam on the top and bottom of the caps, since the case fits so tight. Kinda like Trampa does 
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Do you have a good link of or maybe made a video of the coating process as you described it ?
Are the fets making good contact with the thermal pad on your boxes?
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I have not made a video and don’t know of one. I have perfected this procedure through many trial and error on my own.
There are probably videos, because there are videos for everything.
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What is wrong with it. It’s not cold solder.
it just looks off to me in the pic, can’t really tell if anything is wrong
They are making contact. The thermal pad cannot be too thick or it will not be effective.
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