Can’t vouch for blood unity, but so far my 2 legit unity anti spark still works fine, although im only pulling 50a max, so ymmv
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I would personally never trust a unity anti spark…and i am one of those who never wanted a unity 
. I like my OG focboxes and my DV6, no need for another Enertion product.Maybe a stormcore 100D but they are not available in EU (yet).
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same burnt a unity one in the first month. now I got some @Gamer43 prototypes running without a button. haven’t heard of anyone that has managed to kill one yet.
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I wont bet my breakfast bowl of cereals on it, but to my knowledge the stormcore uses a very similar anti-spark design to the unity.
and hey there are and have been some pretty expensive production boards running these controllers for quite some time so there is that.
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Think ill try with my flipsky’s without button, if it fails ill use a loopkey instead.
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Any updates on this? What switches do people use? I want to add roll to start and auto-off to my board if its not too expensive.
I know it’s flipsky but so far it haven’t failed on me.
It has roll to start and auto off
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I’ve put about 20 miles on this one so far and it’s working great. I really hope it continues to work!
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Yep, basically the same situation. The anti-spark built into Lacroix’s ESCs is bulletproot as well, so you can also add that one to the list.
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do you guys have this issue? “My focbox need min 2sec as well to power up. Idk I just think for me it wouldn’t be comfortable like this driving in the city and traffic. It’s a lot of stop and go and the moment you push, thsn push the trigger expect the board to accelerate but it doesn’t because it’s not ready yet and than two seconds later when you already don’t expect anything it starts to shoot out under your feet. I think it takes a lot of practice to drive save like that. But not saying it’s not possible, just not convenient”. As soon as you roll it, is the board ready to go or is there an annoying delay before its ready?
Usually the auto shutdown should happen after 10-15 minutes of no use, so unless you’ve been waiting at a stop sign for hours, your board should already be on lol
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I agree, but lets say at the start of your ride. Do you have to manually push your board more than once for the esc to be “ready” or as soon as you roll you can throttle and go? Also I remember reading about loop key, the point is to limit the in-rush current because it is too much and will fry the esc? I dont want to use a loop key so if this replaces that it would be great. This serves to protect the esc and I don’t need to worry about pushing the throttle hard as soon as it turn on? Thats the point of this
- " In-rush current limiting.
RC delay network restricts inrush current to safe levels.
dV/dt is ~100V/s (This is considered VERY slow for power electronics. Fast would be 50,000,000V/s). At 6,000 uF output capacitance, this is an inrush current of 600mA."
Push it once, you’ll most likely have to wait for the VESC’s obnoxious boot time anyway
100V/s at 48V means half a second for the switch to fully turn on.
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The inrush current is due to the large capacitors on the ESC being filled up. Has nothing to do with pushing the throttle. Yes, that’s the point of an anti-spark – to eliminate current rushes (sparks) so that you don’t have to worry about them ruining your connectors / destroying hardware.
On some setups it might take a bit of pushing back and forth / pushing harder / for a longer distance to turn the ESC on. Depends on factors such as your motor kv and gearing.
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Is there a link to buy the FS switch from Ali-express? The shipping from their website is half the cost. Wait I think I found it: https://m.aliexpress.com/item/4000585854437.html?spm=a2g0n.detail.0.0.2a4f28eb2DWlj1&gps-id=storeRecommendH5&scm=1007.18500.187585.0&scm_id=1007.18500.187585.0&scm-url=1007.18500.187585.0&pvid=360ad78c-465c-43fd-b833-24c4890521bb&_t=gps-id%3AstoreRecommendH5%2Cscm-url%3A1007.18500.187585.0%2Cpvid%3A360ad78c-465c-43fd-b833-24c4890521bb%2Ctpp_buckets%3A668%230%23131923%2366_668%230%23131923%2366_668%23888%233325%238_668%23888%233325%238_668%232846%238112%231997_668%232717%237565%23714__668%233374%2315176%2367_668%232846%238112%231997_668%232717%237565%23714_668%233164%239976%23319_668%233374%2315176%2367&browser_id=52a36d92d5a547a3b74567a00b2c591f&aff_trace_key=21392417f2bb43558e0cc9b875c12646-1607911462366-01826-_bWJkSkQ&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=0011783879919318807ff8814e73ae6f5d24a46023&gclid=
I’d be careful with aliexpress
there’s an older version (not mine) that’s complete garbage still floating around
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It’s from the official flipsky aliex store. But it’s v2.0 vs v2.2. They use the same mosfet but the older v2.0 uses 6 layers or 18oz of copper vs the new one uses 4 layers and 12oz. Aliex v2.0 is not worse? More copper better?
Oh actually doesn’t matter they have both versions on aliexpress but v2.2 is $5 more, not a difference but if more copper is better it make sense to get v2.0?
v2.2 might have the hardware modification that gets the quiescent current draw under 1mA.
And a blue status LED indicating whether it is on or not.
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Ok I will get v2.2 “quiescent current draw under 1mA.
And a blue status LED indicating whether it is on or not.” this is what your fs switch has?
I don’t actually know
I made the mistake of giving them a design and have no clue what versions have which modifications
This is just my best guess.
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