I used very similar terminals on Ankle Wreacher. I crimped all the joints with a hydraulic crimper and haven’t had any issues.
I pulled 350A from the board last night, 8~10v of sag. Most of which was probably the battery haha(not drop across the terminals)
If you did want to solder them, make sure you continue heating it after inserting the wire to bring the wire up to molten solder temperature. Just inserting the wire into a pool of molten solder will cool down the solder without heating up the wire, leading to a cold joint.
You need what is referred to as a gas tight joint/connection. So, if you want to crush it first, THENNNNNNNNN solder, no harm. But, if you simply shove in there will still a hot solder, then if it gets to solder melt point, it comes out with no urging. NEVER solder only, on a part that can see upper temps.
Crimping is technically better and lower resistance if it’s done correctly with the proper, sometimes expensive, tools.
Soldering is far more accessible.
If you’re not running crazy hot temperatures, I think a soldered connection is more desirable than an improvised crimp, absent the proper tools. You know it’s not going to vibrate off the wire. In esk8, often a couple milliohms is a small price to pay for not vibrating apart.
In my honest opinion, considering whether or not to crimp a connector should be done only AFTER excluding the possibility of removing the connector from the design completely.
He is a legend in the boating community, and had a stroke a while back, and can’t earn money how he used to anymore, actually crawling into the tight engine bays of Yachts, and doing work to a standard far higher than the ABYC dictates.
The sales affiliate links in the beginning are a necessary evil, but lots of good info lies below.