AU $3.54 24%OFF | 10PCS/lot M3,M4,M5,M6,M8 Cap head aluminum cone washer,aluminum alloy crown washer,Aluminum washer for DIY model
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@Venom121212 I was one step ahead of you on the countersunk bolt idea. The enclosure lid’s flip side was set up for it although there’s this nasty line that spans the entire lid length that proved difficult to smooth out. This wasn’t the case for the other side though. If I had my time again I would have designed/printed the lids without the countersunk option and do it myself post
All the cool kids are going down the thumbscrew path though so I’m just joining the club 
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Mate, you’ve got the knack of finding all the cool shit. I’ve got two colors coming in, lets see how this can pimp my ride 
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First draft for the ESC and Battery Box.
I saw a similar one on another build for I took (stole) some of the design elements.
I’ll have the STL and STEP to share with everyone soon.
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Update time! The prototype 3D print of my top mount enclosure is back. I’m excited and a little bumbed at the same time.
The enclosure and the lid are rock solid although there was some splitting on one side that happened during the print process. I’ve given the piece a once-over with some sandpaper and added Araldite epoxy in the gaps. I’ll also get longer countersunk screws to make sure it’s rock solid. I think I’m going to be able to make this work.
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Looks awesome man! Nice work!!
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Michael -what % infill density did you use for case and lid printing?
Thanks a lot
Cheers
Hey Mate, @Skaterboy58
The bloke that printed it for me used 10% gyroid infill. Here are some pictures of it during the print process. Hope this helps.
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DYI top mounted enclosure is coming along.
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Michael Thanks for that . I am looking at a 20% infill - so should be nice and strong! Any chance you could upload the case STEP file as well Cheers
Heyyy thanks for the compliment, when i saw it i hoped it came from my idea, im feeling very proud, thanks!
So to make it supportless i gave the crosses a chamfer of the depth cutout, tip for next time
Hi @Skaterboy58, sorry I dont have any .STEP files created for the case.
I worked with a designer to come up with the existing files as a paid job. If I do reach out for some more work I’ll request it though.
Mike
With my enclosure almost done I’m starting to look at different mounting options.
I’m thinking two or three screws from the base of the enclosure into thread insert on the board. I want to know what size I should go for M5 or M6?
Is there a specific thread insert people prefer for this deck? Or should I just strap it down through the base?
Also big thanks to Radium for helping to make this all possible.
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I’d be wary of using normal inserts. 3x M6 is what I’d suggest. Perhaps T nuts from the underside?
I’d worry that the type of insert that winds in would wiggle out of the softer deck.
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I wasn’t happy with my original VESC enclosure so I made a new one. My Version 1 design had a base made out of PTEG and tightening it down just doesn’t work. Version two has an aluminium based, this also works as a heat sink.
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Update time!
Just need some bindings and then I’ll grip it. MBS is sold out for some time (Three months). I’ve reached out to a place in Germany to see if they’ll ship to Australia
Alternatively, for the sake of getting my build finished, I’m going to go Trampa ratchets. I know everyone raves about MBS although are the Trampa bindings really bad? As a total noob to mountainboarding am I going to notice the diff?
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Right as I made a post about top mount enclosures for the bro lol. How sturdy is the enclosure? I might be able to make CNC carbon fiber top and bottom plate and use printed part in the middle 
I’m also working on an enclosure that’ll confine to the curve of the deck, I’ll post it once it’s done and tested😉
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The enclose I hove works great. It’s my version 1 design, version 2 will be 1cm taller for some added space. One thing I learnt quickly with 3d printed items is that you need to have a solid base. Something you can bolt right down hard that won’t bend or snap. I was lucky to have some help and had one water cut for me. Also I have long bolts that span the entire length of the side walls for added strength. I still need to properly test it out though.
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I drew up a model of my own and got a quote for the carbon fiber top and bottom plates, holy moly it costs a lot so I’m going to try a 5mm abs board for the top and bottom panels.