Isn’t the opposite true? A 20R cell has a continuous discharge of 22A which is greater than that of the 30Q cell which is only 15A. This would double to 44A and 30A respectively for the 2p configuration of the Revel batteries. Correct me if I am wrong but that continuous current would diminish as the voltage sags right? So even if the voltage sags faster on the the 20R than the 30Q wouldn’t the continuous discharge be comparable when both reach a low voltage/capacity since the 20R started at a higher continuous discharge?
If you can draw a high amount of current for each battery, then should I worry about accelerating hard on the travel battery? I realize I would probably have to look at a graph for a better understanding as I’m guessing the voltage does not drop at a linear rate. I’m just trying to get a better undertanding of how this all works.
20R cells don’t actually output anywhere near their rated value as far a I know, and they have less capacity, increasing the C discharge
30Q cells can ACTUALLY do continuous 20A easily. You can’t always trust manufacturer ratings, read up on here a little bit there should be a thread with some battery info
You can completely trust the ratings from the major manufacturers like Samsung, Murata, LG, Sanyo, Panasonic, and Molicel. There is a big difference though between a rating and a capability of a battery.
Samsung 30Q’s are rated at 15A. That is a rating based on safety, cycle life, and performance. The same cell could be rated 5A or 50A, all depending on the market for the cell and the priorities of the manufacturer.
Some companies, like Murata and Molicel, use non-continuous current ratings too since the primary markets for those cells are power tools and electric vacuum cleaners where discharges are typically not pulsed but aren’t true continuous discharges.
So while a Samsung 30Q can easily put out 20A, and even a lot more, it does so with greater voltage sag (reducing the delivered Wh of energy) and with greater damage to the cell (accelerated aging). The manufacturer’s ratings are a great limit to use to help ensure a decent safety margin, decent performance, and decent cycle life.
Were all free to go as far above those ratings as we want though. It all depends on our priorities. 
Hmm I guess I could have worded it better then. I would say that the 30Q can easily deliver 20A with an acceptable amount of sag, whereas if you were to try and pull 20A from a 20R cell, it would sag to unusable levels. Would that be more correct?
Agreed. The 20R would deliver about 1600mAh down to 3.0V at 20A. The 30Q would deliver over 2300mAh.
Another Endurance Ride with the Revel complete!
Revel Drives still proving to be highly reliable.
Added a neoprene pad to cushion the chargers so they don’t rattle apart riding on the deck. Also swapped out the remote battery with a larger pack so I don’t have to swap remotes & repair, etc.
Awesome. What size battery did you manage to swap into the remote? I put a 500mAh in mine
I also put a 500 mAh battery in my remote but Idk what to do about the gap in the casing that causes. I didn’t wanna screw it in all the way and squish the battery.
I used a black electrical wire to fill in the gap.
Same…& yeah, the battery was so big that it was putting too much pressure on the PCB. The remote would change modes if the bottom button was pressed, etc.
Had to loosen some of the screws & then seal the remote with black electrical tape.
Works amazing well now.
Would def recommend that Revel upgrade the remotes to make 500mah the stock battery size.
What is the capacity of the remote’s original battery pack?
Only 250 mAh, I was working with Flo to put in a bigger one, I think the next batch will have a larger battery
well finally just got my 2nd kit in the mail today and paired both kits to the remote no problem but the kits are spinning in opposite directions when i hit the throttle and ive tried multiple repairing between the kits and the remote with the same result anyone got a idea as to why?
When did you order your kit if you don’t mind me asking
1st one 5 months ago back in feburary and the 2nd one in august
unless they updated the esc for the new batch that somehow causes
a pairing issue with the older batch idk why my kits in particular are rotating the opposite directions when if both of them are in 2wd paired to individual remotes they both rotate in the proper direction.
So you’re saying you try to pair it in 4wd mode specifically, and you follow the exact steps in the user manual, but the result is them spinning in opposite directions?
exactly followed the directions perfectly and they are spinning in opposite directions imma bout to open up my new kit and re wire the motor cables so that way when i turn the new kit on while its in 2wd when it is set to forward the kit will go backwards so i can finally ride 4wd until revel gives me a fix to this because the pair process is brain dead easy for 4wd but idk why i got the issues of the kits wanting to play tug of war with each other.
also keep in mind that when i have them both setup as 2wd with them on the back of the board they spin in the proper direction and work fine its just when i pair them in 4wd then both kits decide to spin in two different directions.
cant recreate the inverted rotation i accidentally did on my old kit