The 95mm shark wheels aren’t even out yet
Shark wheels in general get a lot of hate. I mean they could be decent, I haven’t personally tried them.
Finally a break in the weather, so spent this morning riding, and you’re right, it is somewhat more stable at high speeds in reverse. Don’t think I’ll swap the motor to the front though, because my setup is now also perfectly stable at high speeds with RWD. And the comfort of jumping on without having to think about putting it in reverse outweighs it for me. But great tip!
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Hi P, so went out and got a fair couple of miles under my wheels today. Your padding tip works, it is actually a little quieter on bad roads or cobblestones, but it’s not a world of difference. Maybe my expectations (hopes) were too high, could be. Do you think two gaskets will make for more cushioning? On the back truck, unfortunately, the gasket isn’t lasting, because I couldn’t get it in without cutting into the gasket. But now, due to the forces working on it, it’s starting to slip. See picture. So I’ll have to go back and actually disassemble the rear truck fully in order to get the gasket on in one piece.
I got mine broken battery for the repair service recently and it had the same problem. It was fixed exactly like you suggested.
These are looking so amazing, I’m thinking about getting such ones. It would be great if you can keep posted about testing.
The biggest question for me how much they do cut the range from the standart or ER batteries?
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Sweet! Glad it worked out for ya!
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For some reason they seem to affect the range on the standard range batteries more than the XR. This is likely due to the fact that they use a different cell. If I had to average, I would say they do about the same as mostly inflated pnummies on a regular board - would expect 20 to 30% range cut on average. Your mileage will vary
hah
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What whould you say about comparing that ones versus cloudwheels 120mm in terms of vibration absorption? And does cloudwheels cut the range much less?
Direct comparison I prefer the cloudwheels. The black wheels are just really soft, and while they have their benefits, I think the cloudwheels are a more plesant experience for me. I’ve never ridden pnummies before so I’m not used to the soft feeling and not feeling the road very much.
From the cloud wheels, they absorb almost as much vibration as the black ones, but the cloudwheels are more responsive. The cloudwheels do seem to cut the range a bit less, but obviously since they are bigger they do put more stress on the battery and heat up the motors quickly, your braking power and acceleration are also reduced
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So you don’t really need to disassemble anything. The trick is to push the pivot bolt completely in to it’s recess. At that point you can slide your rubber washer in and you only need to lift the drive assembly away from the base plate about a half inch or less. Then pull the pivot bushing back up to full height and thread the nut.
The amount of difference you notice will be a function of how dimpled your pavement is. If your climate involves alot of snow, salt and snow plows then the asphalt takes on a deep texture that can rattle your bones and lots of different skateboard parts. So on smooth roads, adding the rubber spacer is a small improvement. On deeply dimpled pavement it is a much more noticable improvement.
Another thing you can do is to just remove the lower washer. It adds relatively little support to the bottom pivot bushing. Just a few mm to the left and right of the base plate.
pk
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My theory on the reason that range is reduced with larger wheels is that 20% larger wheels is equivalent to 20% harder acceleration load (for 20% less actual acceleration experience). These intense acceleration loads trigger deep curves of voltage drop. The smaller the battery the steeper the curve. Riding these curves down to below critical voltage is what has the greatest effect on shortening range.
So part of the cure for large diamater wheel range loss is for the rider to accelerate as gently as possible. The other part is greater battery capacity – either in the form of 4WD or by adding parallell battery capacity. The larger the battery capacity, the flatter the curve for voltage drop.
This is why doubling the battery capacity will usually result in much more than double the range.
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Yeah pretty much, I slam 100% accleration like 90% of the time so
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Alright, so i got this weird issue that has been repeatable enough for me to consider a problem. It’s more annoying than anything, but can really throw me off (literally) if i’m not expecting it.
Whenever the battery gets below 25% and even worse when it gets below about 15-10% i get these power cuts to acceleration and braking for a half second or less. Enough to have my body lurch forward due to the sudden loss of forward momentum, or in more rare cases i freaked out when there were no brakes and i bailed off the board. So i’ve been taking it easier, and planning my rides more around getting home quickly and on easy hills when i hit that 25% alert. It could just be my indiidual battery not being able to deliver the voltage in bursts below a certain threshold. (this was also an issue before my battery fix) It won’t be much of an issue when i get the second ER battery, but still concerning as far as safety goes.
This never happens when it’s above 25%, and occurs on the same hills and roads i take normally, so no signal interference issues that i can tell. But just like @ShutterShock, i also jam the acceleration full on most of the time anyways. When i’m taking it easier it doesn’t happen as much with a more gradual curve unless im suddenly braking, or climbing a steeper hill and need to slam the throttle to the top or bottom rather than staying in the middle.
Did you get a chance to contact support about it? You’re probably having an internal connection issue and have just been unlucky that it happens under 25% frequently
No i didn’t reach out to them yet, figured it might be happening to someone else. Or that i didn’t search well enough in this topic. I’ll definitely shoot them an email and wait for the response.
You’re probably having an internal connection issue and have just been unlucky that it happens under 25% frequently
That’s what i thought as well, but it has never happened above that percentage. I figured it would have happened at some point at any other charged state and was waiting for it. But after 200 miles on it, it’s pretty repeatable.
That’s interesting. I’m still willing to be it’s a connection issue, maybe it’s like something on a parallel cell so once you drop to a lower voltage, it starts having issues.
I’d shoot an email to the revel customer service team
I got this too! But oddly enough, only on my standard range battery. The ext battery doesn’t do this. After I get the first and second 25% notification, it will give a very small power cut, only half a second, and then it will perform normal again.
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Could be due to the cells ability to sustain the amp draw, maybe the 25% warning on the ESC reduces power a bit? Hard to say, I only own XR batteries so I’m not sure the exact behavior off the top of my head
With intermittent problems like this it’s hard to say without seeing it or taking it apart
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Ya it’s weird man! I don’t get it on the notification, but just when i’m demanding a lot of it. Also were you the one with the drive wheels getting oscillations at higher speeds when under acceleration?
Ya, i pretty much copied my post and sent it over to them.
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