That’s more than mine! I’m at 20inches, so try out the flip - and watch your stability quadruple! (remember to set to reverse before taking off). If you don’t like it, you can always switch back. Once I did it, I was hooked - never going back!
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Totally curious to check this out now. Your cutting board looks awesome btw! Real clean thing, small kicktail, love it.
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Wow, really nice! I do believe the calories are off as well… 
Yes, please post a detailed video/write-up on swapping out the bushings, por favor.
Very weird, what battery charge / speed mode? In 4 I can get it to show 31 or 32 at no load. I’ve personally only been up to 25 but it could do more for sure.
Even at 10% battery it should still get you slowly up to about 25 or 26
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Dude this keeps happening to me with strava too!! So annoying! It will have parts where it glitches a mile away and then counts that as distance and says I went like over 70mph
No worries, I certainly had a lot of wind resistance due to wearing loose and flapping, which played a part in the losing the top speed. 23mph is plenty fast for me.
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It really is surprising how much wind can cut your range and stuff on any board haha
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So if you are asking how to swap the pivot bushings it’s pretty easy
- Remove Pivot nut
- Use a screw driver to pushdown the pivot bolt into it’s fully recess position
- Pull the Truck axle up and away from its normal position
- Remove the lower washer and bushing from the truck.
(May need to use a screwdriver to push from behind to pop out the bushing)
4.5) Optionally remove motor wire cap if the motor wires prevent removal of 4) - Remove the Upper Pivot Bushing (may need to pry out with screw driver)
6.5*) Optionally insert a thin rubber gasket between the base plate and Upper washer - Pull Pivot bolt up to protrude 1/2 inch from base plate
- Insert Upper Pivot Bushing
- Return Truck axle to it’s normal position
- Pull Pivot bolt up to it’s fully extended position
- Insert Lower Pivot Bushing and washer
- Thread and tighten Pivot Nut
*6.5) I like to make a thin rubber gasket out of an old bicycle innner tube. I just cut a small rectangle out with scissors and cut a hole in the middle for the pivot bolt to pass through. This thin rubber gasket eliminates the ratteling noise that you can get on rough dimpled roads because it prevents the upper washer from clanking againet the baseplate.
Pivot Bushing Choices:
I’m not a pivot bushing expert but most seem to agree that riptides and venoms are the premium brands. Whether or not you like the Stock revel Kit bushings or not depends a little on your weight. My 16 year old son is a very light rider and prefers the stock revel kit bushings to the riptide 97a that I have installed. So I think calling the stock Revel kit bushings cheap or poor quality is not necesarily accurate. I think it is more fair to say that the stock bushings are optimized for pretty light riders and that any purchaser of a new skateboard should substitute pivot bushings that match thier own weight and speed preferences.
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@ShakaDaKine Bushings are super easy:
Just use a small screwdriver to undo the protective cap around the motor cables, undo the kingpin, & remove the front/rear bushings & washers. Replace with ones that are more suited to you, put everything back together, & tighten to your delight. Just be careful not to pull on your motor cables too much in the process.
That video goes over it well.
Here’s a good guide on bushings if you’re just getting into them…would personally recommend double barrels for the Revel but to each their own:
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Lol…just saw you replied as well. My bad.
What type of trucks are the Revel kits based on? Would be interesting to see how different pivot cup bushings behave.
@Joeeskate
The video in your post is a good reference. It highlights how the Revel Kit is a bit more tricky. The fully extended pivot bolt really locks the Revel Kit truck into position (between the pivot cup socket and pivot bolt). Using a screw driver to push the pivot bolt in to it’s recess makes it easy to tilt the trucks up and away.
You are correct that removing the motor cable cap can makes it easier. However, you can usually skip that step if you push down the pivot bolt. I like to keep the motor cap in place because it provides “strain relief” for the wires entering the motors. But the clearances are tight so I imagine it is possible that the odd revel kit might need extra wire slack to remove the lower pivot washer and bushing.
I edited my earlier post to add your point about removing the wiring harnes cap.
Also, thumbs up for all your posts to this thread. They are all awesome I can see why you were a “boosted board ambassador”. Was that an official role? Did you get involved in organizing local events for them?
Thanks! I’m 215 and am going to try a double barrel setup with Venom 98a on the deck side and 94a on the road side. I purchased washers, just in case.
Thanks for the added info. It’s the protective cap and motor cables that you guys mention that I’m worried about. I’ll just be super careful.
No problem.
Been super fun getting to know the Revel. Really is such an upgrade from the Boosted minus a few small things that are mostly just my personal preference.
I def see what you mean about the protective cap. Gonna be hard to swap out the pivot cups with the tight space provided.
Yes, it was an official role. I can DM you my old business card if you want proof haha. Was a super fun time. Hosted 1-2 group rides/demo events a week, traveled for various events (trade shows, college demo tour, etc). Just got to do a ton of cool stuff. If you’re on Instagram, you can see all my work at @joeeskate if you scroll back.
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Can you guys confirm that these trucks employ pivot “cups” and not the lesser used “tubes”? I’m thinking that if I don’t swap them out, they’ll become the weak link in the setup. However, cups come in all variations, depending on the truck style/manufacturer. Which one do we use?
Was in Mode 4 the entire time. The remote speedometer isn’t entirely accurate which is why I used Strava for the test which also isn’t perfect haha.
Yeah, hardly any voltage sag. Would’ve had higher speeds at the end but I was in a more dense area & it wasn’t possible to go faster as safely.
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Yeah, the way Strava calculates things in segments causes the speed to be way off sometimes. If the GPS drops out for some reason & then reconnects it tries to extrapolate the speed to connect the distances…most often coming up with a crazy reading.
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Not hard. Just need to pop them out by pushing from behind instead of prying them out from the front.
This is a scene that I trimmed out of my “Revel Kit 4WD Unboxing and Setup” video:
Its not great videograhy or narration – which is why I trimmed it out
But it does show a few of the steps including prying out the pivot bushings from behind.
This is the video that I trimmed the sceen out of:
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I have seen something similar happen on my Gopro footage edited in Race Render 3. If the GPS telemetetry data is lost during acceleration then it assumes the same acceleration until it picks up new telemetry. I once hit 708 kph on the 4WD revel kit.
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