Adding a rubber gasket between the bottom washer and the base plate should work on any system. And for most systems, removing the bottom washer should result in very little loss of support for the bottom bushing… maybe 5% around the edges and about 1% overall. If you try, let me know how it works out.
Torque boards 100mm(110mm) vs 120mm cloud wheels:
“ Think ice skater vs Zamboni.”
The cloud wheels are a comfy ride but are comparatively noisy and noticeable range reduction.
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I still have a question before pulling the trigger on the rebel kit.
How is repairability? Can I open the kit to e.g. swap the ESC if it breakes?
Thanks 
no broken ESCs so far! do it!
Can anyone tell me the exact size of the Kit? Lenght, Width and Hight?
I would like to measure if it fits under my pintail… this is the last check before I am ready to buy 
That’s odd. I thought Onewheels used LiFePO4 cells, and those seem to do really well in the arctic cold.
Is this a new model OW with a really long range or something? Maybe a li-ion battery instead?
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The XR’s and the pint are liion I think.
And the onewheel and onewheel + are A123 LiFePO4’s
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The Revel Kit is much easier to disassemble/assemble than most. Six screws to remove the ESC cover and you don’t even need to remove the Drive from the board. The old landwheel had screws underneath the rubber cushion so you had to remove the drive from the deck prior to disassembly.
The Revel Kit screws are exposed when you remove the battery. One screw is hidden under a sticker. I have not had any ESC failures. I just took one apart for fun.
Incidentally, looks like it would be possible to perform an ESC transplant with a Flipsky if someone wanted to do so. The length and width is the same. The challenge would be vertical height since the Flipsky is 4mm taller. However, a few spacing washers could lift the ESC cover and caulking could seal up the edges. So I believe it would be possible.
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Do note that the Revel kit v2020 is different from the previous iteration - lots of little improvements and design changes, so screw locations might be slightly different
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That’s why we DIY 
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I could be wrong, but I think the cold is mostly bad for the battery if you put it on the charger. Did you bring it inside from the trunk and immediately charge it?
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I leave my LiPo builds in my car sometimes at -15celsius and I still have ~95% capacity so I think you just have a dead p group.
@BillGordon. I’m deleting all of my Onewheel frozen battery posts since they are off topic. Feel free to delete the posts of those who responded to me. I’m concered that people will skim this thread and think that there was a battery problem with a revel kit. No such problem
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Time to remove your I-Wonder and Foamies Wheels from your Revel Kits for you own safety. Two failures reported on E-skate news. Manufacturer admits other failures but says the failure rate is low. These things have not been on the market very long so they are failing in the first year or less. Its not difficult to speculate that the failures will increase over time and that each failure puts a life at risk.
Follow the conversation here.
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Forgot to charge up before dropping some rona off at the ups store. Stuck between 5-6mph with close to dead battery.
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Call an Uber. Its cheaper that wrecking a battery.
Don’t run the battery past the first vibration alert. The Revel Kit tells you when to stop to avoid damaging your battery. The vibration alert tells you that you have dropped below critical voltage. If you wait for the voltage to recover and continue riding, then you are abusing the battery. When the voltage recovers due to rest, the remote has no idea of that fact. The recovered voltage is a very shallow charge – sufficient to keep the cells in good condition until the next charge but insufficient to operate without causing battery damage.
Also remember that the ESC is not monitoring each cell when it looks for critical voltage. So a battery at critical voltage may have cells that are even closer to critical voltage. This is why it is so importent to stop at the first vibration alert. Each sucessive vibration alert means that your weakest cell is at great risk of damage. Just one damaged cell will make the battery unusable.
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Whoops!
Wait but I get a vibration right at one bar?
One Bar remaining and then you get a vibration alert? Yes!
Thats right. Time to coast to a stop. This is not a revel kit problem. Its a characteristic of all lithium batteries from power drills to chain saws to skateboards.
Electric cars have computers that track the history and can distinguish between a regular charge and recovered voltage.
When I first bought an Ego electric chainsaw, I continued to cut wood past the first power down and into the next two power downs. The battery was unusable the next day. I made the mistake that so many eskate riders make – continue running after a critical battery warning. The ego chain saw cuts the power to warn you. But once the voltage recovers, it has no way to remember that its dealing with recovered voltage. Electric skateboards are the same. They only measure the prevailing voltage and have no knowledge of the discharge history.
So whether you own a boosted board or revel kit or a chain saw, you need to heed the vibration alerts/power down alerts.
The vibration alert means “stop now so that you don’t damage your battery”
Treat you battery right and it will last for five to 10 years. Ignore the alerts and you will be very disappointed in the range and durability of the battery.
If you need more range, then buy more batteries or carry a charging brick with you.
Or upgrade to 4WD.