The Production Revel Kit is a little slower than the Prototype that I tested. Jason told me he tuned down the ESC settings to keep customers safer and to protect the batteries from discharging too rapidly. There are many who would argue that staying below 30 mph is the best way to prevent serious injury in case of an accident. That’s exactly the argument put forward by the inventor of the speedboard.
In addition to whatever ESC tuning Jason may have done, I believe the production batteries are a little more restrictive than my Prototype battery. I disassembled my prototype battery to discover that it had no BMS. The production revel Kit has a BMS and I believe that it limits the Amps that the ESC can draw. Jason disagrees-- and he should know better than me. Even still I’m of the opinion that the BMS is a factor that subtracts a bit from top speed and acceleration. I’m not saying that the Revel Kit is slow. Its not. Its just slightly slower than the prototype that I tested.
My Prototype topped out a 46.5 kph on flat ground. I’m told the Production revel kit tops out at 41 KPH on flat ground. So if you have already hit 28 MPH, thats just over 45 KPH. So if you are doing that on standard batteries you are either doing it downhill or you are getting much higher speeds on your standard batteries than others are getting on thier extended range batteries.
You may be aware that some of the motors on the very first run of Revel kits were under lubricated. So you should lubricate the inner wheel bearings with a skateboard wheel bearing grease or use the name brand SpeedCream. If you have already done that then lubricating the bearings may explain why your top speed is over 45kph and others could not exceed 41 kph.
If you like to experiment, you could try bolting on an extra 36 volt battery to see how it helps out your top speed. Just make sure the peak charge is 41.5 volts. Lots of Landwheel L3-x customers created double battery Landwheels and found significant improvements in top seed and range. It not rocket science to wire in a second battery. The wiring is not any more complicated than jump starting a car.
I haven’t test the 4wd range yet so can’t say. But the hill climbing is quite satisfying even with120mms. The only thing I’m worried about is the phases wires are exposed for the front wheels and it’s quite heavy lol.
I just want to remind everyone that the Revel Kit is not waterproof. Like most electric skateboards it cannot be ridden on wet roads. The battery and the power switch are both vulnerable to water infiltration. Wet road grit can also form a cement between the drive and the battery. That muddy cement can make it very difficult to remove the battery.
So my farthest distance with the revel board with 216Wh was 18km. The 4400mah, I could not test it is still in the post. My weight is 95kg at an average speed of 18km / h topspeed on this ride was 40km / h according to GPS. The weather is currently too cold to achieve better values at 30 degrees, the batteries feel much more efficient. The revel kit is in my opinion without problems considering the little things we have already discussed. A slightly sportier attitude of the ESC I wish that would be perfect. In winter I drive to work again with my normal longboards … also fun. PS … stores your batteries in the warm and does not charge more than 41V that keeps the batteries young
"Skating is the best thing that’s happened to me so far, you learn so many things that you can apply to anywhere else in your life: fall down and get up, be patient, not give up, and perhaps postpone it to the next day But the thing I love most about electro-skateboarding is the community, no matter if injured, professional, beginner or beginner: everyone is welcome and can get tips and tricks from others. "
I noticed that in speed mode 4, there is some jitterness when full throttling in a complete stop. Anyone has this issue? It’s been a occurring problem since i got the kit.
@pkasanda Can’t post a video atm since there’s finally rain in SoCal. Also I’m kind of scared to even record it bc I got thrown off once already. Everything is out of the box standard battery, and 90mm wheels. When cruising around 3mph and hammering the throttle to max, sometimes there’s a kickback? Like shifting gears in a stickshift. I really don’t know how to explain it but I hope someone hears me.
To me, it sounds like your adapters are slipping under hard acceleration. Remove the axle nuts from the motor wheels and inspect the adapters. On my Prototype, the adapters were held in place with four screws. On the production Revel Kit, they left off the four bolts and relied on a friction fit. By friction fit, I mean that they relied on the axle bolt being tight to hold the four tabs on the kegle adapter in to the motor.
I asked about the reason for the change. The reason was that the four bolts were vibrating loose. It is true. When I disassembled the Prototype Drive assembly, I found that the four bolts had all loosened on the left side but the same four bolts were snug tight on the right side (or vice versa, I can’t remember). Its a phenomenon of the direction of spin on the motor. The screws on one side want to tighten, the screws on the other side want to loosen.
So the solution that they chose was to remove the four bolts. This would work if customers keep thier axle nuts properly tightened. I think the right solution is to add the four bolts back in together with locktite and also do regular inspections. In your case, the adapter tabs may already be partially stripped so you may have no choice but to add the four screws to each adapter.
Another forum member Germane (@uli66) has identified these as the correct screws.
If you search for ISO 7380-2 you should on-line retailers that sell from the same supplier as Germane found. The machines that you need are metric 4mm x 8mm (aka 4x8). You could also go to a local fastener supplier. If you can’t find torx screws then alen head button screws should also work.
In addition to locktite, I suspect a very thin guage lock washer might do alot to keep the screws in place. Examples:
If you go to a local fastener supplier you can try a few combinations of screws and washers.
So hypothetically, if the members of this forum proposed a group buy to Jason& Flo for a special deal for a certain number of pre-orders before a certain date, who would be interested. I’m thinking the first production run paid for most of the molds so the second production run might have some price flexibility for prefered/repeat customers.
Justin:
If you are having a momentary loss of thrust and then a kick, then I don’t think it has anything to do with the bluetooth connection. Instead, I think you are having the same issue as @dtaoo. Please see my previous (Lengthy) post on this topic.
Incidentally, the only time I ever experienced any type of loss of connection, it was on a 4WD L3-x that I built and one of my drives had a pinched antenna. This was when the L3-x screw posts were cracking and I clamped the shell to the backing plate with a heavy duty metal clamp. I ended up clamping the shell so hard down on the antenna that I crushed the coaxial cable. That’s all background. My point is that the connection was cutting out every minute on one drive and the change in momentum was very gentle.
In my opinion if you and Danny are experiencing a kick that throws you off balance, that sounds nothing like a lost bluetooth connection. It definitely sounds like a slip and grab of the wheel adapters. Danny described it as being like gears slipping and then engaging. The only thing that can slip and then engage is the wheel adapters – if the axle nut is not tight enough to keep the adapter tabs engaged into the motor slots.
So the vibration alert from the remote is new information. I’m thinking that it would not be surprising for the remote to throw out a vibration warning if the two motors are spinning at completely different speeds. In fact, with two wildly different speeds being reported by each motor’s hall sensors, I would not be surprised if the ESC did something drastic like slam on the brakes. That type of behavior would match up with what you and danny are reporting – being thrown off balance.
I’m just guessing. But I’m guessing around the facts that I know…1) Remote disconnections are virtually unheard-of on the Landwheels…2) At least one side of the wheel adapters is likely to loosen to the point that it slips, spinns and then catches.
So find some metric 4mmx8mm machine screws and lock down those wheel adapters. Don’t forget the loctite and lock washers.
the season is over
