@lemonted. I sent you a PM. I’m looking for advice on finding a trustworthy chinese electric bike manufacturer. I thought you might know or might know someone who knows. I want an electric fatbike suitable for winter riding in snow.
Well there is à micro-drop and the kit looks to be only for really flat decks…
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could not see any drop. However, you do have two options.
- Use a large rubber vibration absorbing pad to overcome the “micro drop”
- mount the revel kit backwards. It would look weird and the truck geometry would be reversed. But you would get lots of under deck ground clearance
I recommend Option 1. Scroll up and you’ll see other posts from me concerining rubber vibration absorbing pads.
I want to remind everyone to only use the Revel Kit charger for charging the Kit. Never use an old L3-x or V4 Charger. They look identical but they are different. The old chargers charge the Kit battery up to 42.1 volts. That’s way to high. Germane (@uli66) can confirm this. He is the one who took the voltage measurements.
Mark your Revel Kit charger and never get them mixed up. At 42.1 volts, you could pop your battery in just a few feet of full battery braking.
I think not. Looks like the battery sits at the exact level as the truck, so the micro drop would indeed be an issue. (Source: I own 2 switchblades, gang gang) You could maybe get it done with a lot of riser pads…
It would be cool if Revel offered an option where the box with electronics and battery could be placed anywhere relative to the drives, and just connected with an extension cable.
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Here is a 1/2 inch rubber vibration absorbing pad. Eliminated 90% of vibration.
You can also use several layers of rubber flooring material.
If you are good at soldering & heat shrink then you can indeed cut and extend the three motor wires (six total). Just make sure your solder joints are strong. Bad things happen when one motor wire brakes. Also not recommended if you are concerned about having the warranty intact.
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I have some chargers from the l3X before the battery revision with updated bms for safer regenerative breaking. It says 40v unlike the newer 42. Would it be safe? Or are there other factors than just the voltage that come into play here?
(I have ever only used the Revel kit charger, but curious)
- +10000
the monobloc concept is cool but limits the customer’s options…
Not sure about you guys but I bought those just for those boxes. Motors and escs are very nice surprises.
So you just bought a battery with an enclosure? lol
I’m still hoping they sell the direct drive separately one day…
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If you have the skill to solder together a DIY board from scratch then you have the skill to seperate the revel kit drive assembly from the battery & ESC enclosure. just peel the rubber backing away from underneath the truck/drive assembly. There are four screws underneath that hold the truck to the backing plate. Remove those screws. Cut the wires one at a time, solder in extension wires or use bullet connectors and extension wires.Add as much length as you like to the wires. Presumably 6 inches would do. Now you can locate the drive assembly seperately from everything else.
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cant tell if you’re serious or not… 
just for swappable batts?
Ignore the voltage that is written on the charger. The effect of using one of the old chargers is over charging. Only use the revel kit charger to charge the revel kit.
I feel like sometimes it’s difficult to find a decent enclosure for a deck I want. And even if I found a enclosure do I go with 8p and more but bear the pain when carrying it or stick with4p and less? Swap battery is a good selling point for me instead of a diy swappable battery. I barely ride my 12s8p Evo or Trampa anymore. But recently after learnt EUC I might even give up revel or any esk8 in the near future.
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I don’t thik there is such a thing as a DIY swappable battery. So I guess if you want to build your own custom component swapable battery board, there is no other option than to buy a complete system, then substitute the parts you want to replace.
Ronnie did a review video.
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Can anyone share a real-life speed test and range test with the standard vs extended battery? I still can’t hit 28 mph on the standard, so I’m curious what the numbers everyone is getting.
@esk8 How’s hill climbing and battery life between swaps with the 4WD setup?
I live on a fairly steep hill and weigh 215lb, but you’ve got almost the exact setup I’m considering. I’m basically debating Fattail vs. Icarus at this point if the torque is good enough to get me up a ~28% hill.
Definitely go with the Fattail if you hope to use the kicktail to lift the front end. The kicktail on the icarus is far to short to lift even a 2WD kit. With a 4WD kit there would be no chance on an Icarus.
With the Fattail you may want to move the rear drive a few inches forward realtive to the stock bolt positions. This would make the kick tail longer and make you more nimble for tic tack manuvers. Its pretty hard to find a grade steeper than 10% where I live. Despite that, I’m speculating that the 4WD Kit can climb anything that a passenger car could climb. It has so many motors, lots of battery power and a great ESC for climbing. I also weigh 215. You would not be dissapointed with a 4WD kit.
I have plans to add few more batteries to my 4WD kit. That’s an option you might want to consider if your are going to be climbing and decending long steep hills. The greater the battery capacity, the greater the safety margin. Decending a hill charges batteries about 8 times faster than a wall charger. Double the batteries and the charging rate drops to 4 times. Quadruple the battery capacity and its just 2 times. You want those lower recharge rates becasue high recharge rates can damage cells even if the battery is no where near its peak charge level.
If you have steep hills, you will want to set your 4WD kit to 100% brakes. ts best to start at 50% brakes and practice your way up to 100% brakes. That’s what I did and I love 4WD 100% brakes. But it does take practice. You can’t just yank on the brake lever like its a fishing rod. You can get away with that easily on the 2WD kit. But for 4WD you need to excercise some finess. That means leaning back to brace for the momentum change and taking about a second and a half to transition from minimum to maximum brake position. Once you master that skill you should find the 4WD kit to have best in class brakes.
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